Three iconic elements of traditional beauty products are transforming their identities and could soon redefine your skincare routine.

You’re not mistaken: Hyaluronic acid, a long-standing essential in mainstream serums, lotions, and masks, is now making waves in the natural beauty sector. This is fitting for an ingredient that boasts the ability to retain over 1,000 times its weight in water. With advances in sustainable sourcing, this age-old hydrator has emerged as a favorite among clean skincare enthusiasts, alongside two other widely used ingredients: niacinamide and retinol (or its close relatives). To navigate this abundance of options and enhance your skincare regimen, continue reading. Your skin will soon revel in its newfound smoothness, dewy freshness, and radiant glow.

“Advancements in technology and sustainable production processes have made hyaluronic acid more accessible, driving its adoption in clean skincare.”

 –NAVIN ARORA, DO

FOUNDER OF BOREALIS DERMATOLOGY IN LONG ISLAND, NEW YORK 

Harness the Power of Hyaluronic Acid for Ultimate Hydration

This remarkable ingredient serves multiple functions, but it is primarily recognized as a humectant, a substance renowned for its ability to attract and retain moisture. “Think of hyaluronic acid as a sponge capable of holding a substantial amount of water,” explains board-certified dermatologist Navin Arora, DO, founder of Borealis Dermatology in Long Island, New York. “When applied to the skin, hyaluronic acid acts like a magnet for moisture, drawing hydration to your skin’s surface, which can result in a plumper, more youthful appearance.”

Your body naturally produces hyaluronic acid to lubricate joints and tissues, and this intrinsic presence lends credibility to its use in clean beauty. “Moreover, innovations in technology and sustainable sourcing methods have resulted in an increased availability of hyaluronic acid from eco-friendly sources, which is propelling its popularity in clean skincare,” notes Dr. Arora.

For instance, when Stella McCartney unveiled Stella Skincare a year and a half ago, two of the three products—Alter-Care Serum and Restore Cream—featured hyaluronic acid derived from a fermented lactic acid bacterium. The supplier utilizes a fermentation culture that incorporates byproducts from other cosmetic manufacturing processes.

This circular economic model, designed to repurpose potential waste and prolong product life cycles, is gaining traction within the sustainable beauty industry, according to veteran formulator Mary Berry. As the founder and CEO of Cosmos Labs, she has embraced this shift and creatively repurposes various natural byproducts.

Hyaluronic acid also inspires innovation, with numerous formulations available. It spans a spectrum from ultra-low to ultra-high molecular weight, allowing it to penetrate the skin, remain on the surface, or achieve a blend of both effects. A notable multi-weight product, Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Serum, combines five different molecular weights to deliver a “bouncy” surface feel while providing deeper hydration.

The specific combination chosen by formulators hinges on the intended results. One of Berry’s preferred formulations is Naked & Thriving Renew Resurfacing Night Serum, which incorporates a lower molecular weight hyaluronic acid alongside exfoliating AHAs, helping to maintain hydration during sleep—a time notorious for transepidermal water loss.

Dermatologists are also advocates for hyaluronic acid, with many incorporating it into their skincare lines. A recent addition is board-certified dermatologist Ava Shamban, MD, popularly known as Dr. Ava on television, who is launching her line, Althaea Skin, this month. Her Day Serum features a blend of hyaluronic acid and antioxidants to protect your skin from environmental stressors, along with a hyaluronic acid-infused Awake Eye Gel.

Nevertheless, some of the earliest adopters of hyaluronic acid in the clean beauty sector continue to cultivate a devoted following. For example, Espa Overnight Hydration Therapy, infused with lavender to promote relaxation while hyaluronic acid nourishes the skin; Eminence Organic Skin Care’s Strawberry Rhubarb Hyaluronic Serum, which celebrity Kristen Bell claims provides her skin with all the hydration it requires; and Tata Harper Hydrating Floral Essence—so revitalizing and soothing that its travel size is essential for flights.

Unlock the Benefits of Niacinamide for Radiant Skin

Known as a form of vitamin B3, niacinamide is rapidly gaining traction due to its impressive ability to enhance skin texture, minimize the appearance of pores, regulate oil production, and alleviate redness and irritation. “Niacinamide is a versatile ingredient that is compatible with various formulations,” states Dr. Arora. Derived from sources such as brewer’s yeast and grains, niacinamide is an ideal choice for clean formulators, who are seamlessly integrating this multitasking powerhouse into a wide array of products, from makeup to masks.

Among its myriad uses, the most notable is its ability to impart a healthy glow to your complexion. There is an extensive range of beloved products featuring this ingredient—from Natura Bissé Diamond Luminous Perfecting Cream to Drunk Elephant B-Goldi Bright Drops. New entries into the market, such as Alpyn Beauty Instant Bright Eye and Follain Brightening Serum, are also making waves.

Moreover, niacinamide is being incorporated into more concealers and foundations designed to reduce redness or correct color discrepancies. Examples include Saie Slip Tint Radiant All-Over Concealer and Ilia True Skin Serum Foundation. Additionally, products targeting pore size and oil regulation also utilize niacinamide, such as Lys Triple Fix Translucent Pressed Setting Powder and Milk Makeup Pore Eclipse Mattifying Primer.

Even sunscreens are increasingly enriching their formulas with niacinamide due to its reparative properties. The most effective of these multitasking formulations combine high SPF protection with treatment benefits and immediate complexion enhancement. Notable examples include Odacité Tinted SPF 50 Mineral Drops Flex-Perfecting Sunscreen and Bloomeffects Tulip Dew Sunscreen Serum SPF 50.

Explore the Transformative Effects of Retinol and Its Alternatives

Vitamin A derivatives, ranging from prescription retinoids like Retin-A to over-the-counter retinols, have stood the test of time as some of the most reliable components in modern skincare regimens. Since the FDA approved topical tretinoin in 1971, retinoids have been instrumental in what the Journal of American Academy of Dermatology describes as a “revolution” in skincare. In addition to their role in treating acne, retinoids are some of the most effective agents for reducing wrinkles, stimulating collagen production, and enhancing overall skin texture and tone. While some options are sourced from natural origins, others are synthetic, and nearly all have a reputation for causing irritation.

A more recent trend has emerged: “Clean skincare formulations featuring gentle retinol alternatives are becoming increasingly common,” states Dr. Arora. “Bakuchiol is one standout ingredient,” notes Berry, who has begun to incorporate it into her formulations more frequently. This ingredient is derived from the babchi plant, known by various names, and has a long history in Ayurveda for treating conditions ranging from leprosy to psoriasis. In contemporary studies, bakuchiol has been investigated for its effects on wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and other skin concerns traditionally addressed by retinoids, as both are believed to stimulate collagen production within the skin.

A small study published in the British Journal of Dermatology suggested that bakuchiol is equally effective in diminishing fine lines and improving skin tone as retinol, but with fewer side effects like peeling and burning, as reported by Harvard Health Publishing. Although the study had a limited sample size, these encouraging findings, combined with numerous anecdotal accounts, have sparked a surge of interest in bakuchiol. “I first encountered it in an Herbivore serum several years ago,” recalls Berry, referencing the brand’s popular Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Smoothing Serum. “Since then, we have been integrating it as a retinol substitute in many formulations.”

Many other brands have followed suit, creating a selection of products that include Kora Organics Plant Stem Cell Retinol Alternative Serum, The Inkey List Bakuchiol (a moisturizer), and—ensuring that the skin below your neck is not neglected—The Organic Pharmacy Advanced Retinoid-like Body Oil.

The takeaway: Keep an eye on this developing trend. As more crossover ingredients transition from mainstream to clean beauty, aligning your ethical values with your skincare choices will become increasingly seamless.