Organic Beauty: Embracing the New Rules for Radiance

The clean beauty movement, once a niche concept, has transformed into a dynamic marketplace where certifications, sustainability benchmarks, and brand-led standards play crucial roles in establishing consumer trust.

For many years, products labeled as “organic” and “natural” in the beauty and personal care industry have suggested a promise of safety, cleanliness, and superior quality. as this market segment has expanded, the clarity of that promise has diminished, making it challenging to define and authenticate these claims uniformly. “While organic and natural beauty have gained mainstream acceptance, the regulation surrounding these products has not kept pace. There remains no standardized federal definition for cosmetics in the U.S., leaving many claims driven by marketing rather than verified standards,” states Kseniya Kobets, MD, director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care in New York City. “We still lack a universal certification to reference,” adds Tara Grodjesk, cofounder of the Green Spa Network and founder of Tara Spa Therapy, which only contributes to the prevailing uncertainty.

As the clean beauty movement continues to develop, the significance of certifications has also changed. “Expertise within the industry has grown, leading to a more structured cosmetic regulatory framework,” explains Eve Mélinville, head of R&D and director of skincare innovation at Comfort Zone, an Italy-based regenerative skincare company. “For some brands, certifications are no longer the primary focus. Nowadays, credibility increasingly stems from internal policies and standards guided by the brand’s sustainability strategy and communication, as well as the rigor of its formulations,” Mélinville elaborates. “In essence, credibility is derived not just from certification seals, but from the overall coherence and integrity of the brand’s operations.”

This evolution has been ongoing for years, spurred by heightened consumer awareness regarding the ingredients in beauty and self-care products and the sourcing processes behind them. “The landscape of organic certification has significantly transformed over the last 10 to 15 years,” notes Lisa Starr, a spa business consultant, educator, and host of The StarrCast podcast. “Pioneering brands like The Body Shop made consumers realize they were largely uninformed about the products they applied to their bodies and the manufacturing processes involved.” As access to information has improved through digital platforms, consumers now demand greater transparency from companies about ingredient compositions and formulation methods. Innovations in product formulation, sustainability practices, and ingredient sourcing have raised industry standards. What was once a niche market is now the expected norm, yet with this growth, credibility has evolved beyond labels to encompass a more complex standard based on scientific validation, transparency, and consistency.

While consumers have become more knowledgeable and discerning about clean beauty—thanks to the advancement of accessible information—this increased awareness has also introduced a level of confusion. “Consumers know more about ingredients and their functions, yet they also face confusion since terms like clean and natural lack scientific standardization and do not inherently guarantee safety or efficacy,” states Dr. Kobets. “Research indicates that natural ingredients can sometimes be irritating or allergenic, so the formulation quality and the actual ingredients are more significant than just the labels.” The expansion of the clean beauty sector may have added to this complexity. “Today’s market offers a broader range of clean beauty choices, but they vary significantly, making it difficult for consumers to discern what qualifies as truly clean,” Grodjesk remarks. For instance, some products marketed as natural may still include synthetic fragrances. “The clean beauty boom has, in some ways, made the landscape more confusing for consumers, as numerous factors must be evaluated,” Starr explains. “This includes organic ingredients, ethical business practices, Fair Trade manufacturing, and recyclable packaging.”

On the positive side, the market now boasts a variety of beauty products that are more thoughtfully formulated than those available 15 years ago. “As some companies began to shift towards clean and/or organic offerings, others felt compelled to adapt to this trend,” says Starr.

As the terminology surrounding organic and clean beauty products becomes less clear, the criteria defining what constitutes a genuinely organic or clean product are broadening. “We are witnessing a shift in certification discussions from merely ingredient percentages to a focus on traceability, sourcing, and processing standards. While USDA ingredient thresholds (100%, 95%, 75%) remain the most precise framework in the U.S., newer standards tend to assess the entire supply chain and production batches rather than just the formula’s content,” Dr. Kobets explains.

Significant advancements have occurred in packaging and ingredient sourcing. “Packaging is now evaluated alongside ingredients, with standards prioritizing waste reduction (such as refillable containers), recyclability, and material safety due to our current exposure to numerous chemicals,” Dr. Kobets states. “The focus has shifted from formulations to the complete lifecycle impact of products on consumers and the environment.”

The sustainability dialogue extends beyond packaging. Increasingly, the emphasis is shifting upstream to how ingredients are cultivated and sourced. “Alongside traditional organic certifications, new criteria related to ingredient sustainability and, importantly, soil regeneration, are emerging,” Mélinville comments. “A significant motivator is the rising interest in regenerative agriculture, a model that seeks to restore soil health, boost biodiversity, and enhance crop resilience.”

Another substantial shift in the industry involves the environmental claims made by beauty brands. The European Union’s Green Claims Directive, a proposed regulation designed to combat “greenwashing” by requiring companies to substantiate and verify environmental claims and labels before use, is currently on hold. the Empowering Consumers for the Green Transition Directive (ECGT) remains in effect, imposing strict regulations on what companies can assert. “The ECGT adds an essential layer by forbidding unsubstantiated or vague environmental claims and limiting misleading sustainability labels,” explains Mélinville. “Today, only claims that are scientifically supported, measurable, and verifiable will be deemed acceptable. This represents not merely a tightening of the rules but a fundamental transformation in industry standards that shifts the focus from narrative to demonstrable results and full traceability.”

In this increasingly complex landscape, certifications continue to hold significant importance, and several carry substantial credibility.

In the United States, the USDA Organic seal remains one of the most esteemed certifications due to its federal regulation, according to Dr. Kobets. Cosmetic products making organic claims must comply with both USDA guidelines for those claims and FDA regulations concerning labeling and safety. Here’s a quick overview of the USDA categories:

100% organic indicates that the product is composed entirely of certified organic ingredients. The term Organic signifies that both the product and its ingredients must be certified organic.

“Made with,” which means that at least 70 percent of the product consists of certified organic ingredients, and Specific Organic Ingredients applies to products containing less than 70 percent organic ingredients.

EcoCert is among the oldest and most recognized European certification organizations. It assesses the percentage of organic or natural ingredients in a formula while also considering how these ingredients are sourced, manufactured, and processed. This includes constraints on certain synthetic ingredients, as well as requirements for biodegradability and environmental standards related to production.

The COSMOS (Cosmetic Organic and Natural Standard) represents a unified European standard developed by several certification bodies, including EcoCert. COSMOS evaluates the entire lifecycle of a product, from the raw material sourcing and processing methods to its environmental impact, packaging choices, and labeling transparency.

Other certifications, such as the Union for Ethical Biotrade’s (UEBT) “sourcing with respect” and Fair Trade, emphasize biodiversity protection, establishing ethical sourcing systems, and ensuring fair compensation and living conditions for farmers, as noted by Mélinville.

What about brands that forgo formal certifications? “When a brand opts not to pursue certifications, the primary factor to consider is the credibility it has established over time,” explains Mélinville. “The brand’s coherence, transparent communication, and the perceived quality of its formulations often serve as stronger indicators than any label.”

Even well-informed consumers can find it daunting to navigate the myriad of beauty and personal care products available. The most effective strategies are often the simplest. “Consumers should prioritize reviewing ingredient lists, the evidence supporting active ingredients, authentic customer feedback, and the reputation of the company rather than relying solely on marketing claims,” advises Dr. Kobets. “Both natural and synthetic ingredients can cause irritation, and effective preservation methods are crucial to prevent bacterial and yeast growth.” Here are additional practical considerations:

Ingredients list: Cosmetic products must adhere to a standard for formulating their ingredients lists known as the International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI). “While the INCI is a vital tool, it can be challenging to interpret. As a result, many companies and digital platforms are striving to make ingredient lists more user-friendly through glossaries, QR codes, and educational resources that clarify the functions and origins of raw materials,” explains Mélinville. If you’re on the lookout for products with specific active ingredients (such as retinol or hyaluronic acid), ensure those are listed early in the ingredient list, advises Dr. Kobets.

Product-specific details: The information brands choose to display on their packaging can reveal a lot. Aspects such as the percentage of natural ingredients, biodegradability, or the sourcing of raw materials can serve as tangible indicators of a brand’s commitment to responsible practices. Mentions of sustainable sourcing, manufacturing processes, or traceable supply chains are also significant markers of quality, according to Mélinville.

Transparency and consistency: Ultimately, it’s not only about what a brand claims on its label. “Continuity is key,” says Mélinville. A brand that consistently upholds high standards, improves its formulations over time, and invests in research while prioritizing environmental responsibility fosters trust that transcends formal certifications.

Despite the advancements made, the next chapter in organic beauty will center around accountability. “The future of beauty is not merely about appearing clean; it’s about being able to substantiate that claim for every new batch produced,” asserts Dr. Kobets. “We require more organizations to standardize oversight and proof-based assertions.” This shift is partly driven by consumers, who are increasingly valuing companies’ ethical practices, transparency, and environmental stewardship. “This presents a significant opportunity for emerging boutique and smaller beauty brands,” states Starr.

The tools necessary to support this level of scrutiny are rapidly advancing, enabling companies to meet rising expectations. “The increasing availability of traceable and scientifically analyzable ingredients is making organic and clean beauty more tangible and measurable,” notes Mélinville. This allows beauty brands to verify their sourcing practices, environmental impacts, and supply chain integrity with enhanced precision. “The future of clean beauty involves not sacrificing efficacy for sustainability,” asserts Mélinville. “It’s about harmonizing both aspects.”