Cyndia Harvey, a fashion hairstylist and founder of the groundbreaking brand This Hair of Mine, emphasizes how this shift is influencing other cultural aspects. ‘We are witnessing more Black hairstyles being celebrated on runways, in magazines, and on television. Six years ago, I created the This Hair of Mine film with Akinola Davies Jr., driven by the realization that my portfolio was overwhelmingly Caucasian models, reflecting the industry’s dynamics at the time. It was at that moment I consciously decided to center Black hair in my work, infusing an element of fantasy into hairstyling on the runway and in editorial shoots.’

black haircare and hairstylists

Hair By Nikki Nelms For ELLE

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The concept of moving from the margins to the center often emerges in discussions about Black diasporic culture, which has profoundly shaped popular culture globally. From our modes of expression, including speech and dance, to our culinary contributions and our evolving perspectives on freedom and liberation, Black culture has been a powerful force. Yet, for an extended period, the wellspring of this creativity was often overlooked, with people of African descent marginalized in western societies.

‘It’s not that our hair has changed, it’s that the industry’s interest in understanding it has shifted.’

Ross emphasizes that Pattern is a brand designed for everyone with curly, coiled, or tightly textured hair, which requires adequate moisture and hydration. The brand stands alongside other pioneers, such as Vernon François’ eponymous haircare line and Anthony Dickey’s Hair Rules, that have embraced an inclusive philosophy. Ross acknowledges that many individuals outside the Black community also have curly or coily hair, but what’s particularly groundbreaking is that while these products are designed for anyone with textured hair, the brand celebrates Black beauty. Unlike in the past, where Black people were often an afterthought, Blackness is now defining industry standards, marking a radical departure from previous norms.