Cosmetics Business Live 2022: Key Insights for the Future of the Beauty Industry

Images credit: Kurt Rebry

Cosmetics Business Live 2022 concluded with great success, marking its inaugural in-person edition at the renowned Business Design Centre in London. This significant event served as an essential gathering for professionals within the beauty sector, including brand owners, manufacturers, suppliers, and retailers, all eager to explore the latest trends and innovations that will shape the industry in 2023 and beyond.

Speaker Highlights: Transformative Insights from Day 1

In conference room B, industry leaders Jonathan Travers-Smith and Yihu He from Hot Pot China provided invaluable insights for beauty brands aiming to penetrate the lucrative Chinese market with their session titled ‘How Beauty Brands Can Win Over Chinese Consumers’. Travers-Smith, the founder and CEO of Hot Pot China, emphasized the importance of having a standout product: “China is a hero product market. You may have a huge range, but that hero product will be the one that gets known.” Understanding this can significantly boost a brand’s visibility and success in such a competitive landscape.

The first panel discussion of the day, organized by Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) UK, featured prominent figures such as Celine Gilg from Puig, Margaret Mitchell from Space NK, and Huw Govier from Amazon. They engaged in a critical dialogue about ‘The Cost of Living Crisis: How to Survive in a Downturn’. Govier, the Category Leader for Beauty at Amazon, stressed the necessity for beauty brands to maintain their advertising investments during challenging economic times. “There is plenty of evidence that brands who invest in media and advertising during challenging times not only perform well during that period, but also come out stronger,” he asserted, highlighting the long-term benefits of strategic marketing.

As the discussions progressed, MSL Solution Providers addressed critical topics concerning product safety and testing with their presentation on ‘Microbiological Considerations for Progressive Cosmetics’. Ben Elmadi, Technical Manager at MSL Solution Providers, underscored the importance of staff training in maintaining refill station hygiene to ensure customer safety and satisfaction. “All it takes is for a couple of people to get a bad product out of your refill dispenser to start a negative trend,” he explained, demonstrating the critical link between operational practices and consumer trust.

Networking at Cosmetics Business Live 2022

In a fascinating presentation, Clariant focused on ‘Nature-Inspired Innovation: From Resurrection Plants to Skin Resilience’. Julie Droux, Senior Technical Marketing Specialist at Clariant, highlighted how certain plants can survive extended periods without water, essentially going into a state of dormancy until conditions improve. This resilience prompts an intriguing question: Can these remarkable plants inspire the next wave of skincare innovations?

Droux further elaborated, “Climate change and exposure can deeply affect skin health. Under harsh weather, oxidative stress is triggered, DNA can be damaged, and this can lead to reduced protein functionalities.” She presented Clariant’s new Galactinol Advanced formula as a potential solution to these skin concerns, illustrating the intersection of nature and science in skincare advancements.

A compelling panel discussion on ‘Microbiome Mapping and Working with Skin Microflora’ was led by Sarah Parsons from Cosmetics Business, featuring experts like Dr. Kristin Neumann from MyMicrobiome, Barbara Paldus from Codex Beauty, and Fanny Coste from Cosmebiome. Neumann emphasized the necessity of a grounded approach when making claims about microbiome-focused products, stating, “Everyone’s microbiome is different, so there will never be a gold standard microbiome that works for everyone.” This highlights the complexity and individuality inherent in skincare.

In a related discussion, Christiane Lippert from Lycored addressed ‘Beauty from Within with Natural, Plant-Based Carotenoids’. “Lumenato has a damage limitation effect; it’s a really interesting approach at a cellular level,” Lippert remarked, emphasizing that their ingredient serves as a solid foundation to enhance collagen functionality. This illustrates the growing trend of incorporating holistic wellness into beauty regimes.

The topic of ‘The Importance of Beauty Activism’ was passionately presented by Millie Kendall (OBE) from the British Beauty Council. She asserted, “I believe everyone becomes an activist as soon as you use a beauty product,” highlighting how beauty choices reflect personal values and societal beliefs. This connection between beauty and activism encourages consumers to question social norms and push for significant changes in the industry.

Millie Kendall (OBE) from the BBC spoke on beauty activism

Dr. Mark Smith from Natrue addressed ‘Environmental Claims: Expectations, Regulation, and Substantiation’. He emphasized the urgent need for the beauty industry to confront greenwashing, stating, “More than half of people are looking to make more sustainable choices, but two-thirds struggle to understand if the products are environmentally friendly.” This highlights the growing consumer demand for transparency and accountability in beauty products.

Continuing the theme of claims, Stewart Long from Cutest Systems discussed ‘How Claims Can Differentiate Your Brand (and How to Do It Credibly)’. He cautioned, “Social media will kill you if you make a crazy claim these days,” reinforcing the idea that authenticity is paramount in marketing beauty products. Long encouraged brands to differentiate themselves thoughtfully, stating, “You have to give people a reason not to forget about you,” underscoring the importance of innovative and engaging marketing strategies.

Jessi Baker from Provenance presented on ‘Transparency Tech: How to Future-Proof Your Sustainability Marketing’. She argued that without clear sustainability credentials, brands risk becoming irrelevant by 2030. “We’re seeing shoppers are more likely to trust claims if they have been verified,” she noted, emphasizing the critical nature of authenticity in consumer relations.

The event’s kickoff speaker in conference room C was Ashlee Cannady from Aprinnova. Her talk on ‘Bio Fermentation: Transforming the Beauty Industry’ highlighted Aprinnova’s innovative, Brazilian sugarcane-based cosmetic ingredients, which are produced with significantly lower land and water usage compared to traditional methods. This demonstrates a commitment to sustainability while prioritizing product efficacy.

Shifting gears to regulatory issues, Bartosz Jaslowski from Freyr discussed ‘Centralized Monitoring, Assessment & Smart Decisions on Changing Global Regulatory Requirements & Ingredient Regulations’. Jaslowski made a compelling case for the advantages of regulatory intelligence, illustrating how it can save time and help prevent costly product recalls, thus enhancing efficiency in the beauty industry.

The first panel of the day in Room C delved into ‘The Future of Personalisation’. Moderated by Julia Wray from Cosmetics Business, the panel included Nicola Meldrum from Skin Trust Club, Emmanuelle Moeglin from Experimental Perfume Club, Samantha Dover from Mintel Beauty & Personal Care, and Dr. Jason Thomson from Skin + Me. They acknowledged the anticipated growth in bespoke beauty, despite current challenges around regulations and consumer education, emphasizing that the demand for personalized beauty solutions is only set to increase in the future.

James Senior from Berlin Packaging presented on ‘Make-Up on Display: The Case for Glass Packaging’. He showcased Berlin’s VIP collection of premium glass packaging, designed to minimize fossil fuel usage while appealing to environmentally conscious consumers within the color cosmetics sector.

A regulatory panel discussion titled ‘EU/UK Ingredients Laws Updates’ was moderated by Julia Wray (Cosmetics Business) and featured experts such as Alex Fotheringham from MSL, Sarah-Jane Dobson from Kennedys Law, and Olivia Santoni from Bloom Regulatory. The panel provided insights into the latest updates to the EU Cosmetic Products Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, focusing on the divergence between this and the UK Cosmetics Regulation, as well as the implications of post-Brexit legislation.

The impact of emerging green ingredients and upcoming packaging laws was identified as a critical area for the industry’s future, emphasizing the need for brands to stay informed and compliant in a rapidly changing regulatory landscape.

Iona Silverman from Freeths also contributed valuable regulatory insights in her talk titled ‘The Influencer Market: What to Do if the ASA Complains’. She highlighted the importance of clearly labeling sponsored content with #ad instead of #spon or other equivalents, addressing issues surrounding influencer contracts, fraud, and the legalities of using virtual influencers in brand campaigns.

In the packaging vertical, a panel led by moderator Julia Wray (Cosmetics Business) featured Jesus Beneyto from FACA Packaging, Mark Lockyer from Sampling Innovations, and Dan Williams from Orean. They engaged in a lively discussion on ‘Refill Strategies’, weighing the pros and cons of various refillable packaging models—at-home, ‘send back’, and in-store refills—and their suitability for different brands. The role of refills within the broader context of sustainable packaging solutions was also explored.

Closing day one in Room C, a panel discussion titled ‘Beyond Skin Deep: Beauty Manufacturers Driving UK Innovation’ was moderated by Julia Wray (Cosmetics Business). Featured panelists included Made in Britain members Shalom Lloyd (Naturally Tribal Skincare), Chris Taylor (Eve Taylor London), and Madeleine White (Juni Cosmetics). They shared compelling case studies on the advantages of carrying the Made in Britain mark, advocating for the positive international reputation associated with British-made goods in terms of quality and reliability.

Speaker Highlights: Insights and Innovations from Day 2

The second day of the conference kicked off in conference room B with a presentation by Paige Tracey from the Soil Association on ‘Organic Certification as a Solution to Greenwashing in the Beauty Industry’. She emphasized the growing consumer awareness of greenwashing as a deceptive marketing tactic, highlighting that terms like ‘clean’ and ‘green’ often lack regulation, leaving consumers vulnerable.

Gary Laverty and Genie Burgees from Lavandi Talent tackled the topic of ‘Championing Your Internal Influencers’. They pointed out that the current job market is candidate-driven, urging clients to recognize this dynamic to attract and retain top talent effectively.

Next, Marcel Korevaar from Ecolab delivered a session on ‘Cleaning and Disinfecting Manufacturing Equipment Effectively, Removing Cosmetics Residues with Less Time, Water, and Energy’. He outlined key considerations for increasing production capacity while ensuring operator safety and sustainability, providing actionable insights for manufacturers.

A thought-provoking panel moderated by Sarah Parsons from Cosmetics Business discussed ‘Making Luxury Sustainable’. Panelists Simon Dipple from BellaGiada and Eva Lagarde from re/sources explored the importance of considering the entire product journey, from packaging to consumer experience, in crafting sustainable luxury products.

In a session on responsible claims, Sarah-Jane Dobson from Kennedys Law delved into ‘ESG in Cosmetics – Green Claims and Greenwashing’. She stressed that brands must evaluate their entire product lifecycle when making green claims, rather than focusing on isolated aspects, to build genuine consumer trust.

The day concluded in room B with Glendean Rehvan from In Trend discussing ‘The Medicalisation of Skin Care’. He noted that today’s consumers increasingly prioritize ‘safe’ skincare products that avoid potentially harmful or irritating ingredients.

Wizz Selvey from Wizz & Co then presented on ‘How to Grow Your Brand – The Retail and Consumer Trends to Future-Proof Your Business’. She asserted, “The biggest opportunity to think about as a brand is how can you build engagement with your customers and extend the amount of time they spend with you?” highlighting the need for brands to foster meaningful connections with their audience.

A panel discussing UK and EU regulations at Cosmetics Business Live 2022

Day two in room C began with an engaging session on ‘Cannabinoids Catch Up: CBD, CBG and Their Uses’, presented by Matt Birt from British Cannabis. He discussed the benefits of CBD and CBG products for sensitive and acne-prone skin, as well as the rising popularity of whole plant extracts due to the entourage effect, providing a comprehensive understanding of these emerging ingredients.

Florencia Moreno Torres from Rousselot followed with a presentation titled ‘Sustainable, Clean and Minimalistic: The Holistic Approach of Collagen Peptides in Beauty’. She introduced the upcycled ingredient Peptan and shared groundbreaking data on its efficacy in combating hair loss, showcasing the importance of sustainable sourcing in beauty formulations.

In a fascinating presentation titled ‘Space-Certified Technology: What Is It and How Can It Benefit Your Skincare Products?’, Kyle Landry from Delavie Sciences discussed a UV-boosting ingredient discovered when Bacillus lysate was exposed to open space conditions. He teased exciting future developments related to ingredients derived from organisms placed in extreme environments, hinting at innovative breakthroughs on the horizon.

Natalie Callaghan from Melbec Microbiology introduced ‘Vegan Accredited Microbiology Testing: The Future of Cosmetics and Personal Care Products’. She discussed vegan-friendly culture media alternatives to traditionally animal-derived products, highlighting the industry’s shift towards more ethical and sustainable practices.

James Cardus from Silverson Machines presented ‘Half the Energy, Half the Time: How High Shear Can Transform Your Manufacturing Process’. He demonstrated how advanced rotor-stator technology can significantly reduce mixing times, achieving up to 90% efficiency while being environmentally friendly, marking a pivotal advancement in manufacturing processes.

Bartosz Jaslowski from Freyr closed the day with a talk on ‘Streamlining Global Supplier Raw Material Documents and Compliance Management’, addressing the challenges of compliance data overload and presenting the rmReady system as a time-saving solution to improve regulatory management.

In the realm of retail, Beth Alexander from eBay discussed ‘The Rise & Importance of the Marketplace’. She highlighted that 80% of the UK now shops online, emphasizing eBay’s strategy to engage Gen Z consumers, who prioritize personalized communication, sustainability through preloved and refurbished items, and immersive technology, underscoring the necessity for brands to adapt to changing consumer preferences.

Flora Pense from Coptis elaborated on ‘Digital R&D: Supporting Innovation from Customer Needs to Market Compliance’. She discussed the importance of aligning product innovation with consumer demands while ensuring compliance at every level, including raw ingredients, formulation, stability, regulatory testing, and packaging.

Dr. Carol Treasure from XcellR8 was unable to attend but will soon share her insights on ‘What Is Truly Cruelty-Free Testing?’ through a digital presentation, ensuring that the conversation around ethical testing practices continues.

Mintel’s Andrew McDougall concluded the event with his insightful overview on ‘The Future of Beauty’. Drawing inspiration from the visionary Reymond Loewy, he emphasized the importance of balancing advanced technology with accessibility in beauty offerings. McDougall noted that today’s consumers desire both comfort and familiarity while also advocating for a more inclusive definition of beauty, inviting attendees to embrace the evolving ‘beautyverse’ and leverage community engagement as a cornerstone for future success in the industry.

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The upcoming December issue of Cosmetics Business magazine will feature an extensive review of all the presentations and panel discussions that took place at Cosmetics Business Live 2022, offering valuable insights and takeaways for industry professionals.

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