Tela Organics features natural ingredients.
Biotop Professional rolled out a quinoa-based hair oil.
Indeed, U.S. salon service revenues experienced a remarkable surge of 23% in 2021, rebounding robustly from pandemic-related closures, as reported by market research firm Kline & Company.
“From baby braids and bubble braids to pigtails, braiding became the fastest-growing salon service in the U.S. in 2021,” highlighted Paula Gottdiner, project manager of consumer products at Kline, and author of the insightful report “Braids, Beards and Bronzing Boost the Comeback of Salons.”
This trend likely originated during periods when salon visits were limited, with individuals seeking solutions for difficult-to-manage hair: braids effectively conceal split ends and faded color while providing a stylish way to manage longer tresses. As salons reopened, the demand for braiding services surged, resulting in a staggering 72% increase in such services last year, directly correlating with a 105% rise in revenue. This trend is further substantiated by the growing number of social media posts highlighting braids and braiding techniques.
Additionally, 2021 marked the emergence of the scruffy man, a trend noted by Gottdiner from Kline. The stay-at-home orders allowed men to grow out their beards, leading many to adopt a carefree attitude towards grooming since they were not in public view. Consequently, beard services were one of the few categories that experienced slight declines in both the U.S. and Canada. However, the latter half of the year indicated a resurgence in beard grooming services, signaling that men recognized the importance of maintaining their facial hair with professional care. For instance, Reuzel’s Beard Balm saw a remarkable 58% increase in U.S. sales, highlighting this shift.
Furthermore, pampering and care efforts extended to hair treatments as well. In-salon hair treatments saw a significant increase in both demand and revenue, with a remarkable 26% rise. The trend, often referred to as the “skinification” of hair, continued throughout 2021 with an emphasis on clarifying, conditioning, and scalp-care treatments, according to Kline. Clients increasingly sought to extend their salon experience by investing in conditioner and treatment products for at-home use. Products formulated for repair and conditioning experienced an impressive 65% spike in sales. The K18 Leave-in Molecular Repair Hair Mask emerged as a standout newcomer this year, achieving status as one of the top 25 best-selling treatment items, as reported by Kline. Notably, sales of scalp-care treatments rose by 27%, with J Beverly Hills’ Hair and Scalp Intensive Treatment Masque leading the market.
The heightened demand for hair care products shows no signs of waning. In fact, market research firm The NPD Group from Port Washington, NY, indicates that over 90% of U.S. consumers express a strong interest in purchasing hair-related products, elevating their routines to new levels. This category is projected to continue growing through 2024, with an anticipated average gain of 15% in the U.S. over the next two years.
Compared to the previous six months, a growing number of consumers plan to invest in more targeted hair-related products, including hair and scalp treatments, relaxers, chemical straighteners, hair gummies, and vitamins, as outlined in the latest “Future of Hair” report from NPD.
The increasing demand for hair care products, coupled with consumer loyalty to high-efficacy items, is driving the ongoing success of this category. More than half of hair product consumers report that when they discover a product that works for them, they remain loyal to it, with 49% expressing a willingness to pay a premium for effective solutions, as indicated by NPD.
Revolutionizing Hair Health and Strength for Lasting Results
Salon clients of all ages still enjoy a visit to a stylist for a cut or color.
R+Co’s Ring Tone gel creme styles curly hair
Hair health and strength will always remain a priority for salon consumers.
Michael Duenas, a renowned celebrity hairstylist and founder of Veluer Creative in Los Angeles, emphasizes that the focus on rebuilding hair from the inside out is the prevailing trend in today’s beauty landscape.
“Everything revolves around hair health, beginning internally,” he shared with Happi. “Even styling products are now prioritizing hair well-being. It’s more about achieving genuinely healthy hair that can be styled, rather than merely making unhealthy hair appear healthy. High-shine finishes are now the benchmark; the matte look has fallen out of favor. Shiny hair is synonymous with healthy hair.”
There was a time when oils were viewed solely as substances to be eliminated from skin and hair, often regarded as undesirable ingredients by consumers. However, according to hair expert Philip Pelusi of Tela Beauty Organics, who frequently contributes to Happi’s Expert Opinion column, the perception has shifted dramatically. Consumers are now actively seeking beneficial and often unique organic oils in salon products.
“These untapped treasures serve as excellent scalp and hair hydrators, provide heat protection, and enhance shine. We carefully select oils that are shampoo-soluble to avoid any buildup on the hair or scalp,” Pelusi explained regarding salon hair care. “Remarkably, they are effective across various hair textures.”
Pelusi prefers using cold-pressed oils, as they retain their nutritional value during processing.
“Through the advanced process of Micro Emulsion Technology, we optimize the molecular size of these oils for quicker and deeper absorption into the hair fiber and scalp surface, delivering benefits that extend far beyond the surface,” he elaborated.
One of the standout ingredients in Pelusi’s latest launch, Tela Beauty Organics Magic Hair Transformer, is Pongamia glabra (karanja) seed oil. This oil, derived from the seeds of the Millettia Pinnata tree native to South and Southeast Asia, boasts nine fatty acids that nourish, hydrate, and provide anti-aging, slip, and heat protection benefits. Additionally, Pongamia glabra seed oil offers natural antimicrobial, soothing, and antioxidant properties, safeguarding hair’s strength and color from fading. It also contributes shine and has some UV filtration properties, along with a history of use in Ayurvedic medicine to alleviate skin issues, benefitting the scalp as well.
Redken added 10 Min Color Gel Lacquers to its portfolio.
R+Co Blue Reflective Shine Spray
Pelusi also noted a significant change in consumer perceptions regarding the coexistence of natural and organic ingredients with scientific formulations, where the past views indicated a strong divide.
“However, we have always embraced a nature-improved-by-science approach in our product development at Philip Pelusi. This is particularly relevant today, as consumers increasingly demand innovation alongside a desire for organic and sustainable ingredients,” he shared with Happi. “True transparency begins with our stylists, who serve as the vital link connecting consumers to the products. They bring the products to life for clients through education.”
Garren, a celebrity stylist and co-founder of R+Co and R+Co Bleu salon hair care in New York, has also recognized that hair loss is a significant concern for contemporary beauty consumers.
“As we emerge from the pandemic, R+Co and R+Co Bleu have been proactive in creating exceptional products that repair stressed hair and enhance its luxurious feel,” Garren stated. “Many individuals experienced hair loss due to pandemic-related stress.”
He explained that all R+Co Bleu formulas are specifically designed to infuse hair with essential nutrients and strengthen hair follicles. Collections like the R+Co Bleu De Luxe Reparative and Ingenious Thickening are particularly beneficial for those dealing with thin, limp, or brittle hair.
“We recently introduced the Sleep Masque Night Repair Serum, which has proven to be a game changer. Clients who incorporate this product into their routine report significant improvements in their hair health,” Garren remarked. “This serum is formulated to repair damage overnight and mend compromised cuticles.”
Innovation continues to thrive within the professional hair care sector. Garren believes that the surge in creativity may stem from the time consumers spent at home during the early days of the pandemic, where they may have inadvertently caused damage to their hair while experimenting with at-home treatments.
“Now is the perfect time to repair any damage that has been done,” he asserted.
The pursuit of shiny hair remains a major trend.
“Clients are moving away from dull appearances; they desire hair that is not just healthy but radiantly beautiful,” he conveyed to Happi. “The R+Co Bleu Reflective Shine Hairspray is exceptional for achieving this. I recommend clients flip their hair upside down and apply it all over for an instant boost of lightweight shine without the heaviness or stickiness associated with oils. Its compact size makes it perfect for carrying in a purse, elevating hair to new heights and proving effective for all hair types.”
Additionally, R+Co has launched Ring Tone: Ultra Defining Gel Crème, which is enriched with agave nectar. This innovative formula, featuring notes of Sicilian lemon, tangerine, eucalyptus, green tea, tree moss, and amber, effectively combats frizz while providing a strong hold without dryness or crunch when applied to towel-dried hair. Chia seed extract conditions hair, enhancing shine, while prickly pear oil improves softness and elasticity, and styling polymers deliver touchable definition and long-lasting hold.
Celeste Figueroa, the global marketing director at Biotop Professional, Houston, TX, has observed that today’s salon clients prioritize instant gratification.
Ouidad’s new Advanced Climate Control product
Kerastase debuted refillable packaging for its hair care.
“Consumers expect immediate results, with benefits that are visually and tangibly apparent. Consequently, the demand for rapid in-salon treatments that deliver instant outcomes is increasing, delighting clients and encouraging them to purchase products that help maintain results between salon visits,” she explained to Happi.
Biotop Professional 911 Quinoa Rinseable Oil Treatment and single-dose Treatment Ampoules are pH-balancing, deep-conditioning, and revitalizing rinseable oil treatments designed to rejuvenate all hair types, particularly dry, dull, or damaged hair, in under 10 minutes. These treatments work to strengthen the hair, seal the cuticle, and lock in moisture for added shine. Available in either a 30ml bottle or a box of single treatment ampoules, this rejuvenating hair oil incorporates Biotop Professional’s signature quinoa extract, a complete protein that closely resembles the amino acids found in human hair.
Effortless Gray Coverage and Innovative Hair Treatments
Many individuals seek effective solutions for covering gray hair, but finding the time for frequent salon visits to keep up with the latest colors can be challenging. With Redken’s new Color Gels Lacquers 10 Minute, stylists can now color hair and cover grays in just 10 minutes, as claimed by the company. Redken’s CGL10 allows stylists to achieve rapid coverage with complete control, providing up to 100% coverage on even the most stubborn white hair. This line is perfect for quick root touch-ups, walk-in appointments, and add-on services, and is available at Ulta salons nationwide.
L’Oréal’s professional Kérastase hair care brand is experiencing expansion with new offerings. The Kérastase Chroma Absolu Bain Chroma Respect is a revolutionary shampoo designed for fine to medium hair, intended to respect and protect color from fading. It complements an existing line specifically formulated for combination hair, as reported in Happi. This lightweight hydrating shampoo incorporates amino acids and Centella Asiatica (also known as gotu kola) to gently cleanse and hydrate hair while ensuring that the fiber remains intact to prevent color stripping. The intense hydration provided soothes hair fibers, reducing porosity and allowing for optimal moisture retention without weighing hair down, according to the professional hair care brand. This line includes additional products such as a conditioner, masque, and gloss treatment.
In line with its commitment to sustainability, Kérastase recently launched 100% recycled and recyclable aluminum bottles. These bottles can be refilled with Kérastase’s new lightweight Eco Pouches, which use 82% less plastic than traditional packaging, according to the company. Additionally, these bottles can be personalized through engraving, transforming them into stylish fixtures for any shower.
Shampoo eco pouches are available for purchase for all of Kérastase’s top-selling washes, including Genesis Bain Hydra-Fortifiant, Genesis Bain Nutri-Fortifiant, Blond Absolu Bain Lumiere, Nutritive Bain Satin 2, Resistance Force Architecte, and the newly introduced Chroma Absolu Bain Riche Chroma Respect mentioned above. (For more on sustainable packaging, see p. 66 in this issue).
R+Co Bleu’s Sleep Masque Night Repair Serum
In other developments, Kérastase has expanded its bestselling Genesis collection to include products specifically designed for men. Formulated for individuals with weakened hair prone to thinning, all products in this line are infused with creatine and ginger root to boost thickness, volume, and strength.
The newly launched Matrix Instacure collection is specifically designed to repair damaged hair. The anti-breakage system is infused with liquid proteins that work to repair and strengthen damaged, dry, and brittle hair, while visibly minimizing split ends. The collection comprises shampoo, conditioner, porosity spray, and scalp treatment, all tailored to address various types of damage, including split ends, root pull, and scalp tension caused by chemical processes, mechanical heating devices, and styling, according to the brand.
Matrix Artistic Director Nick Stenson from Chicago foresees the Porosity Spray emerging as a top-selling product within the Matrix portfolio.
“The Porosity Spray is a true hero product, enriched with liquid proteins and vitamin B5. It effectively fills porous strands, minimizes the appearance of split ends, controls static and frizz, and balances pH levels, among other benefits,” he informed Happi. “Consumers can achieve up to 60% less breakage and notice results after just one use!”
A groundbreaking development in the professional hair care sector is the launch of a personalized hair care line tailored to meet individual needs called Urban Alchemy, which is exclusively available at Sally Beauty, with Cosmo Prof serving as the exclusive professional distributor. The brand’s flagship collection, Prescription Care, is a fully customizable hair care line consisting of three base formulas, seven additives, and additional specialty products. Consumers can create personalized products that cater to their specific needs, whether it be added shine, hair growth, repair, volume, moisture, scalp care, or color lock, allowing for a truly individualized hair care experience.
Urban Alchemy’s Prescription Care shampoo, conditioner, and hair mask are formulated with customizable bases that incorporate the Omni Signature Complex, which boasts antioxidants and nutrients such as rosehip oil, biotin, calcium pantothenate, corn oil, vitamin E, and horse chestnut to effectively cleanse and moisturize the scalp.
The Prescription Care Alchemies comprise: Repair, Scalp Care, Hair Density, Color Lock, Moisture, Shine, and Volume. Additional Urban Alchemy Hair Care Solutions include Blonde Toning Drops, Urban Alchemy Salt Scrub Cleansing Shampoo, and Urban Alchemy Hydrating and Soothing Conditioner.
“Consumers are increasingly seeking personalization in their hair care routines. With the comprehensive Urban Alchemy line available exclusively at Sally Beauty, we are significantly enhancing our range of professional quality products, empowering consumers to create solutions tailored to their unique hair needs and achieve their desired results, regardless of hair type,” stated Maryann Herskowitz, group vice president of merchandising at Sally Beauty.
This customization capability enables stylists to create personalized formulas for their clients in the salon, allowing clients to purchase their bespoke hair care mixtures to maintain salon-quality results at home.
Addressing the textured hair care market is essential for companies looking to expand their professional hair care offerings. For instance, the popular curly hair brand Ouidad is enhancing its Advanced Climate Control product line with three innovative solutions designed to protect textured hair types from frizz.
Utilizing Ouidad’s high-performance Anti-Frizz Nano Technology, the Frizz-Fighting Hydrating Mask, Featherlight Touch-Up Gel Cream, and Frizz-Fighting Touch-Up Balm are formulated to seal hair’s cuticle, locking in moisture and preventing humidity from causing frizz. The end result is curls that are silky-soft, shiny, and boast frizz-free definition. The line’s key ingredient, sericin, contributes moisture, repairs damage, restores elasticity, and protects hair from UV rays.
For Spring 2022, CHI Naturals has introduced the Aloe Vera and Hyaluronic Acid Collection.
This line encompasses both body and hair care products, featuring a hydrating shampoo, hydrating conditioner, hydrating hair gel, aloe serum, hydrating body wash, and hydrating lotion. Formulated with aloe vera and hyaluronic acid, CHI Naturals provides an explosion of hydration and nourishment, locking in moisture while enhancing shine and softness in both hair and skin.
This collection effectively minimizes frizz and breakage, resulting in radiant, healthy-looking hair, while also keeping skin smooth, soft, and glowing. The formulas feature natural ingredients that promote and restore the water balance in hair and moisturize skin for optimal hydration.
Additionally, CHI Naturals with Aloe Vera and Hyaluronic Acid boasts sustainably manufactured packaging that encourages a circular economy for consumers, promoting practices of reducing, reusing, and recycling.
Embracing Diverse Trends in Professional Hair Care
From volumizing sprays and shampoos to innovative in-salon color treatments, the professional hair care industry offers a multitude of options for everyone.
“I foresee a significant resurgence of volume styles reminiscent of the 1990s, and I’m absolutely here for it. I wouldn’t be surprised to see root-boosting products returning to prominence,” remarked Presley Poe, a member of the CosmoProf North America artistic team and a professional hairstylist based in Portland. “The upcoming year promises to be an era where almost anything goes! We are witnessing a revival of natural tones alongside a surge in bold colors and beyond. With this in mind, I anticipate that we will be seeking products that cater to a well-rounded clientele, with a strong focus on hair health and color care.”
Garren shared with Happi that during the pandemic, many consumers attempted at-home hair coloring, often resulting in suboptimal outcomes.
“I believe that in the coming year, a greater number of individuals will be eager to return to salons for professional coloring services. They may seek corrective color treatments or simply wish to refresh their looks,” he predicted.
Duenas of Veluer Creative anticipates that the clean beauty movement will significantly influence the professional hair care sector in terms of product formulation.
“Almost all professional lines have been perceived as ‘dirty’—clean alternatives are on the rise and gaining traction among professionals quickly. Consumers are actively seeking clean options for both salon and home use as health consciousness continues to rise. However, it’s crucial that clean products deliver results, and that remains a work in progress,” he stated.
Stenson from Matrix views sustainability as the “next big trend” in salon hair care.
“The year 2023 is poised to be the year when brands commit to utilizing less water in their product formulations. For us, this could entail developing more concentrated formulas that require smaller amounts for effective use,” he suggested. “This approach emphasizes smart formulas that leverage the latest technology, simplifying the products we use.”
As with other beauty categories, the focus on wellness is expected to gain prominence within salon hair care products. According to Figueroa of Biotop Professional, the treatment experience has evolved.
“Offering an effective product is no longer sufficient. Today’s consumers demand products that provide an effective and memorable experience both in the salon and at home. Therefore, hair and scalp care are following the trends already established in skin care—consumers are seeking multi-step treatment rituals akin to their skin care routines, reinforcing the idea that hair care and scalp care are integral components of self-care.”
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