Think of peptides as building blocks for new collagen and elastin fibers (aka those parts of our skin that are responsible for elasticity and bounce). When their production slows down, firmness, texture and overall radiance diminish and those dreaded fine lines begin to become more noticeable.

As Dr. Claire Chang, a board-certified dermatologist at Union Square Laser Dermatology in New York further explains, “There are several types of peptides used in skincare—all of which serve different functions. Signal peptides stimulate new collagen growth, elastin enzyme-inhibitor peptides block the enzymes that break down collagen in the first place. There are also carrier peptides, which deliver minerals to the skin and aid in wound healing and other enzymatic processes, whereas neutrotransmitter-inhibiting du peptides may work to simi wrinkle formation.”

“[Peptides] have also been shown, in small studies, to reduce signs of aging and photodamage, including pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, as well as improve skin hydration,” Chang says. In short, peptides are a solid choice for the retinol-adverse crowd .