February 19, 2025
by Sarah Villafranco, MD
We’ve all encountered that one friend blessed with radiant skin and luscious hair who, when asked about her beauty regimen, casually tosses her hair and claims, “Oh, I just use Coconut oil!” Naturally, you rush to buy a massive jar of coconut oil from the store, only to find yourself battling acne, greasy locks, and dry, flaky skin within weeks. What could be going wrong? Why isn’t your coconut oil moisturizer the magical potion you imagined it to be?
If you’re among the lucky ones enjoying glowing results from coconut oil, congratulations! This means that coconut oil is compatible with your skin, making it an affordable and readily available skincare solution—you’re winning the skincare game! However, if you’re struggling to harness the benefits of coconut oil like many others, this article is tailored for you. Below, I will delve into the various types of coconut oil, how to utilize it effectively, the pitfalls to avoid, and alternative products that may suit your skin type better.
Understanding the Composition of Coconut Oil
Imagine Tom Hanks in Castaway, desperately trying to open the coconuts stranded on his deserted island. After much effort, he finally cracks one open and out spills liquid! Is it coconut oil? Not quite—that’s actually coconut water, a fantastic source of electrolytes, particularly beneficial if you’re dehydrated after a shipwreck.
To produce virgin coconut oil, the white pulp is extracted from the fibrous brown shell, which is discarded. This pulp is then either pressed raw or dried prior to pressing, using a large, screw-type machine known as an expeller to extract the oil. The terms “expeller-pressed” or “cold-pressed” refer to the maximum temperature reached during this extraction process. Typically, cold-pressed oils, which are heated to no more than 120 degrees, retain more nutrients. Nonetheless, both expeller-pressed and cold-pressed coconut oils are considered unrefined and are extracted without chemicals. The heat used in expeller-pressed coconut oil may impart a slightly nuttier, toastier flavor compared to its cold-pressed counterpart, yet both maintain a distinctly coconut aroma.
Virgin coconut oil is rich in lauric acid, a saturated fatty acid comprising 40-52% of its content. Lauric acid has a 12-carbon chain, classifying it as a medium-chain fatty acid, albeit the longest among its peers. Due to its longer carbon chain, lauric acid requires more heat to melt, explaining why virgin coconut oil remains solid at room temperature.
Another variety, known as fractionated coconut oil, is often used in skincare products. This type has had lauric acid removed, leaving behind medium-chain fatty acids like caprylic acid (8 carbons) and capric acid (10 carbons). The extraction can be achieved through steam distillation (the method we prefer at Osmia) or via chemical solvents. In wellness and nutrition circles, this form of coconut oil is frequently referred to as MCT (medium-chain triglycerides) oil. Because the fatty acids have shorter carbon chains, fractionated coconut oil remains a clear liquid at room temperature and boasts an impressively long shelf life, making it less susceptible to rancidity compared to virgin coconut oil. We incorporate a premium organic version of fractionated coconut oil in our body oil formula, which most users rave about using on their damp skin!
As a final note, avoid purchasing refined coconut oil. This type undergoes high-heat processing, resulting in the loss of most beneficial compounds, rendering it unworthy of its low price tag. In fact, its price is indicative of its quality—cheap for a reason!
Assessing the Effectiveness of Coconut Oil on Your Skin
Despite the numerous benefits associated with coconut oil for skin care, it’s important to note that virgin coconut oil does not suit everyone. Lauric acid, the predominant fatty acid in virgin coconut oil, possesses remarkable anti-inflammatory properties and demonstrates antibacterial effects against Propionibacterium acnes, the bacteria responsible for acne. However, virgin coconut oil is also highly comedogenic, scoring 4 out of 5 on the comedogenicity scale. While it may combat acne-causing bacteria, it can simultaneously clog pores, leading to more breakouts. Additionally, virgin coconut oil is not easily absorbed by the skin, which may leave you feeling both greasy and dry.
On the other hand, fractionated coconut oil tends to be more compatible with various skin types. Its absorption rate is higher, imparting a velvety finish rather than an oily residue. Although it lacks lauric acid and is therefore less effective against acne-causing bacteria, it ranks 2 or 3 on the comedogenicity scale, reducing the likelihood of breakouts. If you’re seeking relief for dry skin, fractionated coconut oil is the way to go, as it penetrates the skin more effectively, creating less of an oily sensation. When applied to wet or damp skin, it often leaves the skin feeling luxuriously soft.
The use of coconut oil in bar soaps presents a different scenario entirely, as the oil undergoes changes during the saponification process, and the lather is rinsed off shortly after application. Therefore, while raw coconut oil might not suit your skin, a bar soap containing coconut oil is generally less likely to lead to breakouts, thanks to the saponification process.
In addition to potential breakouts and inadequate nourishment, like any natural ingredient, coconut oil can trigger allergic reactions if you have sensitivities to its compounds. True coconut allergies are rare, affecting approximately one in 260 individuals, and may or may not present symptoms when using the oil externally. Importantly, a coconut allergy differs from a tree nut allergy.
Common Misunderstandings About Coconut Oil’s Role in Skincare
“Coconut oil provides hydration.”
Widespread claims about the hydrating properties of coconut oil are misleading. The prefix “hydr-” signifies water, and there’s no water present in coconut oil. Therefore, if you’re using coconut oil, whether virgin or fractionated, to “hydrate” your skin, your success hinges on applying the oil to wet skin. This principle holds true for all oils, including our exquisitely balanced body oils, and we discuss this process and the benefits of natural body oils in detail here.
“Coconut oil is effective for treating eczema.”
Many individuals experiment with coconut oil in their quest for eczema skincare or perioral dermatitis skincare, only to discover that it often exacerbates these conditions. Both eczema (also known as atopic dermatitis) and perioral dermatitis require hydration, necessitating a harmonious blend of water-soluble and oil-soluble ingredients, and they typically do not respond well to oil alone.
“Coconut oil is a universal solution.”
While some individuals may find it versatile, it’s not a one-size-fits-all solution. What works excellently for your hair might not translate to your skin. It may effectively remove eye makeup yet cause breakouts if applied to your face. Finding the right product is a personal journey, and you have the freedom to choose what suits your skin!
Superior Alternatives to Coconut Oil for Skincare
If you discover that using virgin coconut oil leaves your skin either breaking out or feeling unmoisturized, consider applying it to wet skin. If that approach falls short, switching to fractionated coconut oil on damp skin might be beneficial. Should these options still not yield results, it may be time to explore alternative oils. Here are some of my personal favorites for skincare, each boasting a comedogenicity rating of 2 or lower:
Argan Oil
This light, subtly nutty oil penetrates the skin swiftly and thoroughly, leaving virtually no greasy residue. We incorporate it into our Nectar Nourishing Drops, a booster suitable for all skin types.
Jojoba Oil
Technically classified as a liquid wax, jojoba oil shares a structure remarkably similar to the skin’s own sebum, making it highly effective at repairing a compromised skin barrier. The benefits of jojoba oil extend beyond skincare—it even played a part in saving sperm whales from extinction, if that piques your interest!
Kukui Oil
This enchanting oil, also referred to as candlenut oil, contains a touch of Hawaiian magic. We feature it in our body oils and a small yet impactful amount in our beloved Purely Simple Face Cream.
Sunflower Oil
One of the primary ingredients in our Craft Series Body Oils, sunflower oil boasts an incredibly velvety texture, imparting an unmatched softness and smoothness to the skin (best when used on wet skin, as described above).
Pumpkin Seed Oil
This striking dark green oil, also found in our Nectar Nourishing Drops, is rich in zinc and Vitamin C, assisting in evening out skin tone while enhancing skin texture.
Prickly Pear Seed Oil
The impressive benefits of prickly pear seed oil include its light, velvety texture and its abundance of Vitamin E, omega-6 fatty acids, Vitamin K, and Zinc. This oil excels at repairing damaged or hyperpigmented skin and is also part of our Nectar Nourishing Drops.
Recognizing When Coconut Oil is Adverse for Your Skin
If you’ve been liberally applying coconut oil and still experience dryness or flakiness, you may either need to apply it to wet skin or transition to a different oil. If you begin to break out from using coconut oil (beyond the initial mild breakouts that can occur with new skincare products), it could indicate that coconut oil is too comedogenic for your skin. Moreover, if you encounter redness, itching, or irritation while using coconut oil, don’t hesitate—just switch to something else!
Deciding Whether to Continue Using Coconut Oil for Your Skin
As highlighted earlier, if you’re currently using coconut oil and are satisfied with the results, rejoice and continue your routine! There are numerous reasons to explore coconut oil for skin health, and if it’s delivering positive outcomes for your skin and/or hair, you should celebrate and appreciate your skin’s simplicity! However, if your attempts with coconut oil yield no visible improvements or lead to skin distress, rest assured, you’re not imagining things. Coconut oil is a wonderful, natural ingredient that works well for some while falling short for others. Experiment with it and discover what best suits your skin!
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