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Is your morning routine defined by the painstaking application of serum, moisturizer, SPF, primer, foundation and concealer? Or are you enjoying an extra five minutes in bed these days? Because casting an eye over the biggest complexion launches of the last year, there’s one very clear theme. When it comes to make-up, we’re simply not doing as much as we used to. With multitasking make-up that cuts down on our need for multiple products, and a general move away from the mask- like, heavily-sculpted aesthetic popularized by social media over the past decade, you have to ask: is the classic foundation dead?
According to the stats, we’re buying less make-up in general. Market research firm The NPD Group reports that unit sales of prestige make-up products declined 20 per cent from January to the end of August 2022 – compared to the same period in 2019 – with skin prep products one of the biggest casualties: sales of lip primers plummeted 54 per cent, and eye primers 43 per cent, over the period. The market for prestige make-up products in the UK was valued at £334M, a decline of 25 per cent in comparison with the same period in 2019.
Whilst individual prep products may be falling out of favor, hybrid formulas look to be emerging, phoenix-like, from their ashes. Emma Fishwick, UK senior account manager for The NPD Group, reports that nine of the top 10 bestselling make-up launches of the past year actively promote their skincare benefits to appeal to customers. “Examples include foundations that are described as ‘a blend of make-up and skincare’, bronzers ‘infused with hyaluronic acid to hydrate’ and new foundations with SPF benefits,” she explains.
And the last year has seen the launch of some pretty compelling products. Take cult suncare brand Ultra Violette’s Daydream Screen Tinted Veil with SPF50, which offers medium coverage alongside broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection. is a concealer and foundation in one, and also contains skincare ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, caffeine, aloe and arnica. And then there’s What The Foundation, from the “natural look” legend Bobbi Brown’s beauty brand, Jones Road. A tinted balm- like foundation with skin-nourishing ingredients like jojoba oil and sodium hyaluronate, What The Foundation perfectly straddles the skincare and make-up categories, and has garnered legions of fans thanks to its natural finish and hydration benefits. In fact, the day it launched t out to be the highest sales day to date for the brand, with over 8,000 units sold.
“What The Foundation is Jones Road’s take on what a foundation should be – it offers a skin-like finish and is honestly like a tinted moisture balm, but it adds coverage to the places where you most need it,” Brown tells us. People want to find ways to simplify every aspect of their life, and their make-up and skincare routine is no different. If you can save both time and money by using products that are multi-purpose, it’s a no brainer.”
She’s right, of course. At a time in which almost everybody is simultaneously busier than ever and having to cut back on their outgoings due to rising prices, skipping the primer, foundation and SPF steps in favor of one does-it-all hero makes a lot of sense. But it isn’t just about efficiency – there’s also been a significant shift towards a more natural, skin-first finish, which is reflected in the most recent crop of celebrity and influencer brands too.
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