We’ve all experienced that moment—you purchase a new skincare product, excited to try it, only to find it collecting dust in the back of your cabinet after just a few uses. One day, while organizing your space, you stumble upon it again. This leads to important questions about your skincare routine: Does skincare have an expiration date? Is it still safe to apply?

Continue reading to uncover essential information about skincare expiration, including how to interpret dates and symbols, identify if a product has surpassed its effectiveness, and tips for prolonging the lifespan of your favorite skincare essentials.

Mastering the Art of Reading Expiration Dates on Skincare Products

Understanding how to read expiration dates is crucial for every skincare enthusiast. It’s important to note that skincare items fall under the category of cosmetics as defined by the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) and are not classified as drugs. This distinction means that manufacturers in the U.S. (and Canada) are not legally required to display expiration dates on their products.

There are notable exceptions, particularly in the case of sunscreen, which is categorized as a drug due to its protective benefits against sun damage. According to the FDA, sunscreen must clearly display an expiration date on its packaging unless it has been verified to remain stable for up to three years. Given sunscreen’s vital role in maintaining skin health, it is imperative to adhere strictly to its expiration dates. If your sunscreen lacks an expiration date, it is advisable to use it within three years of purchase or dispose of it.

For skincare brands that do specify a shelf life, you will often find symbols on the packaging. Two primary symbols are commonly used to indicate the longevity of skincare products. These symbols are mandatory in the European Union (EU), though some U.S. companies opt to include them on their packaging, especially if they market products in Europe.

1. Period After Opening (PAO): This symbol indicates how long a product remains effective after it has been opened. It typically appears as a small jar icon with a number followed by either the word ‘months’ or the letter ‘M.’ For example, ’18M’ means the product is good for 18 months after being opened.
2. Best Before End Of (BBE): This symbol signifies the date by which a product should ideally be used, similar to food expiration dates. It is represented by an hourglass icon accompanied by a date. This date is determined through stability testing that simulates various conditions a product may encounter over time.

The challenge with vague symbols like the PAO is that they can often be inaccurate. Environmental factors greatly influence a product’s shelf life. Consider whether the lid was left off too long, if it was exposed to sunlight, or if it was stored in a hot car. Each of these factors can cause a product to expire sooner than indicated by the PAO.

Conversely, if you stored the product unopened in a cool, dark place and didn’t get around to using it, there’s a chance it could still be effective.

Because of these variables, it’s important to use your judgment along with the symbols. To determine if a product has spoiled, I recommend closely examining it for any noticeable changes in appearance or scent.

Identifying Expired Skincare Products: Key Indicators

It’s essential to recognize that skincare products do not last indefinitely, even if they display an expiration date or symbol. Most skincare formulas ensure safety and quality for approximately two years, although some may last up to three years, while others, especially organic products, may have shorter shelf lives. With this diversity, how can you accurately assess if a skincare product has expired? Here are several steps to guide you.

1. Examine for Expiration Dates: The first step is to look for an expiration date or symbol on the packaging. However, as previously noted, not all products will have this information, and you cannot solely depend on it. If a product does have an expiration date, it offers a valuable insight into its current status. Regardless, proceed to the next step for a thorough assessment.
2. Observe Changes in Consistency: Take a moment to evaluate the product’s texture. Has it thinned out compared to when you first opened it? Are the ingredients separating? Is there any visible mold? If you notice any of these issues, it’s best to discard the product immediately.
3. Check for Color Alterations: After assessing consistency, observe any changes in color. Has the product shifted from its original hue, such as turning from white to yellow or brown? This is particularly common with L-ascorbic acid, a form of vitamin C that is known to oxidize quickly. If you see such color changes, dispose of it.
4. Smell Test: Finally, evaluate the scent. Does the product emit a different smell than when you purchased it? Is it rancid or simply unpleasant? If you detect any off-putting odors, it’s time to let it go.

The Risks of Using Expired Skincare Products

Fortunately, most reputable skincare brands incorporate effective preservatives into their formulations, ensuring their products remain safe for use even beyond the expiration date or typical two-year period. 

However, products labeled as “natural” or “organic” that lack preservatives are a different story. These products can be prone to mold or bacterial growth, which poses a significant risk to your skin.

Generally, the most significant concern with using expired skincare items is the potential loss of effectiveness. This varies from product to product; for example, unstable forms of vitamin C, such as pure ascorbic or L-ascorbic acids, can oxidize rapidly upon exposure to air. Once oxidized, they no longer provide the same antioxidant benefits, which ultimately diminishes their effectiveness. The same degradation can occur with products that contain enzymes over time.

In addition to reduced efficacy, using rancid products may expose your skin to free radicals. When oils and active ingredients oxidize, they generate free radicals, which could potentially cause more harm than good!

Well-formulated products typically employ pH adjusters to maintain stability; however, these can degrade over time, leading to pH fluctuations. This can heighten the risk of skin irritation or reduce overall product effectiveness.

In light of these factors, I strongly recommend using skincare products within 12 to 18 months of opening them to ensure maximum efficacy and value for your investment.

Proven Techniques to Extend the Shelf Life of Your Skincare Products

That serum tucked away in the corner of your cabinet may not be eternal, but I’ve gathered several tips and tricks to help you make the most of it. Here they are, shared with you!

Document the Purchase Date on the Bottom of Each Product

Regardless of whether the product features a PAO symbol, remembering the exact date when you opened it can be tricky. What good is knowing a product lasts 18 months post-opening if you can’t recall when it was opened? Writing the date on the bottom serves as a reliable reminder to monitor a product’s efficacy.

Store Products Away from Direct Light

Keeping your skincare products shielded from light can significantly enhance their longevity. Many active ingredients are sensitive to light exposure, which can compromise their effectiveness. Therefore, consider storing them in a drawer or cabinet to maintain their integrity.

Practice Hand Hygiene Before Using Jar Products

Although most skincare formulations are designed with robust preservatives, it’s still wise to wash your hands before dipping your fingers into a jar. While skincare spatulas have gained popularity, the most important step is ensuring your hands are clean.

Ensure Caps Are Tightly Sealed

Air exposure can degrade active ingredients quickly, so always check that product caps are securely closed to extend their shelf life.

Bonus Tip: Refrigerate Your Skincare Products

If you have products that you don’t use frequently but want to keep fresh, consider storing them in the refrigerator. This can help maintain their integrity. Explore which products are best suited for refrigeration.

Ultimately, aim to use products within 12 to 18 months of opening them to ensure they remain safe and effective. If you’ve been neglecting a particular product and wonder whether it’s expired, consider why it hasn’t been part of your routine. If it’s not suitable for your skin type, don’t hesitate to pass it on to a friend or family member or donate it.

Celebrity Esthetician & Skincare Expert
Renée Rouleau, an esthetician trained in cosmetic chemistry, has dedicated 30 years to researching skin, educating her audience, and developing an award-winning line of skincare products. Her extensive hands-on experience and expertise have resulted in a tailored approach, creating products formulated for nine distinct skin types, ensuring that every individual’s complexion receives the precise care it needs. Renée is trusted by celebrities, editors, bloggers, and skincare enthusiasts globally, and her commitment to ongoing research and practical knowledge has earned her recognition as “the most passionate skin practitioner we know,” according to Marie Claire.