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MakeUp in New York’s 12th annual event at the Jacob K. Javits Center in New York City on Sept. 14 and 15 saw another successful turnout with more than 3,400 participants and well over 100 makeup and skincare suppliers taking the showroom floor.
The turnout not only affirmed the recovery of the beauty industry from Covid-19, but the pandemic gave rise to the current clean beauty movement. Conscious consumption and a broader focus on wellness in regards to the safety of people and planet during the covid-19 The pandemic accelerated a so-called “boom” in the clean beauty market.
This new ecosystem is resapping innovation, and propelling brands to stay ahead of the curve when it comes to being the most compelling to the Gen Z-aged consumer and up.
“The growth in clean and sustainable products has outpaced total beauty,” said Leila Rochet, chief inspiration officer of Cosmetics Inspiration and Creation, a forecasting consultancy based in Paris. “We see that consumers are more and more looking for better-for-me products, but also better for all products.”
According to Spate, a New York City-based data-driven company that tracks the latest beauty trends of what consumers are searching for on Google, clean beauty is currently seeing an uptick in searches, with consumers typing in specific key words like “circular economy ” (+12.2%) and “ethical” (+11.4%) and “biodegradable” (+21.3%) to make more educated purchasing decisions. In fact, consumers’ interest in clean and sustainable are trumping quality and cost. As many as 65% of Gen Z-aged consumers are likely to purchase a product described as “clean,” Rochet said.
Inspirational Themes
Leila Rochet, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation led a discussion on clean beauty on Sept. 14.
Four themes inspired around the clean beauty market are waste efficiency, engineered nature, open origin and biodiversity beauty. Waste efficiency includes leverage of a regenerative culture, ingredient upcycling, manufacturing waste and water optimal formulations.
“We’ve been seeing a lot of products using upcycling ingredients, especially in skincare in the food industry,” said Rochet. “What’s important is that when you upcycle a product, you don’t deplete too much energy to make it. That’s still a very big challenge for some ingredient suppliers.”
Engineered nature includes biotechnology or modern farming, tinctural colors and ingredient preserving solutions (ie Freeze dry). Open origin involves full transparency and the change from “Made In” to “Sourced From.” Biodiversity beauty includes ensuring nature longevity and favoring community development.
Cultural Differences in Clean Beauty
France is rooted in nature, Rochet said, and that is why ingredient transparency is paramount for consumers there. She said 30% of French people trust that the beauty industry guarantees cosmetic products can be used without risk. Apps in which consumers trace formulations are also garnering success, with some 21 million users in France. Driving the so-called “deep green revolution” to develop radically clean solutions that benefit people and planet are eco-native brands. This new beauty ecosystem will thus entail ultra-transparent sourcing, new upcycled ingredients, regenerative packaging and dynamic, net-zero products that proactively give back to the planet.
In separate presentation later that day, Alexander Kwapis, vice president of product design and development, FusionPKG, said the pillars of its products are reduce, refill and recycle. The brand’s packaging is made from recycled plastic waste and 100% PP PCR polyolefin mono- material airless packaging, and meets the preferred guidance of The Association of Plastic Recyclers.
Clean beauty is also gaining traction in Korea.
“A lot of things are happening in Korea around local upcycling, using some specific ingredients that are coming from traditional Korean medicine,” said Rochet. “Interestingly also, they use EWG [Environmental Working Group] and announce it on their packaging.”
Simplicity, refinement, spontaneity and originality are values in Japanese culture with transparency in cosmetics a strong trend alongside recyclability as demonstrated by such popular brands as Shiseido.
“Japan used to be about heavy makeup and layers,” said Rochet, adding that skincare is taking precedence over color cosmetics with models wearing minimal makeup to embody this trend.
“We’re seeing a very strong skintification of the category while moving toward clean,” she added. “Things are moving and it’s really important to see that eco native brands are really driving a deep green revolution, and it’s important for companies to keep up with what’s happening because they’re pushing the boundaries and developing radically clean solutions that are benefiting both people and planet. It’s a new way of doing business.”
In China, 54% of people are interested in sustainability; 42% say manufactures should take more responsibility for environmental protection, according to Rochet.
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