For half of my life, I struggled to tame my rebellious curls into sleek, straight strands—a journey that resonates with many curly-haired individuals globally. The fight against natural texture is a common experience, often fueled by societal expectations that dictate how we should present ourselves based on our hair type.

Everything shifted for me in 2019 with the enactment of the CROWN Act in California, which prohibits workplace discrimination based on one’s natural hair. This change was monumental for people of color, who consistently face societal pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards. Hair has long served as a marker of race and identity, and my decision to embrace my natural curls was a powerful statement against years of unsolicited opinions and micro-aggressions. I made the choice to abandon heat styling altogether, embarking on a liberating journey of self-acceptance without compromising my identity.

A year into my curly hair journey, I found myself increasingly frustrated with the state of my curls. They felt lifeless and unmanageable, leaving me questioning why my hair wasn’t behaving as expected. I turned to the internet for guidance but encountered intimidating suggestions such as “The Big Chop” and numerous homemade hair mask recipes that left me skeptical. After extensive searching using terms like “curly haircut,” “best cuts for 3A to 3C curls,” and “curly hair specialists in New York,” I discovered Lorraine Massey and her renowned salon, Spiral (x,y,z), located in Tribeca. Lorraine is the visionary behind the Curly Girl Method (CGM), a holistic approach to curly hair care that has gained global recognition among curl enthusiasts. The CGM emphasizes the importance of selecting appropriate cleansers and conditioners while abandoning harmful practices like using harsh shampoos and excessive heat styling. I knew I had to experience Lorraine’s expertise firsthand, marking the beginning of a transformative chapter in my hair journey.

During my visit to the salon, I had the opportunity to sit down with the creator of the Curly Girl Method to discuss her secrets for maintaining vibrant, healthy curls, tips for trimming hair at home between salon visits, and her reasoning for skipping hair masks altogether.

What sparked your passion for curly hair care and how did you start your career in this field?

My journey in the hair industry began at the young age of 13 in Leicester, England, where I worked as a shampoo girl. The shampoos I used were so harsh that by the end of each day, my hands would be raw and bleeding from the chemicals. I vividly recall washing clients’ hair and being confronted with a sink full of tangled strands trapped in suds.

This experience fostered a deep-seated disdain for the traditional hair washing process. It felt devoid of artistry to merely wash, brush, and straighten hair, adhering to the same uninspired, straightened style that everyone else seemed to favor. The sodium sulfate in the shampoos stripped away moisture, leaving the scalp dry and creating the illusion of dandruff, which was actually just dehydrated skin. After subjecting hair to scorching heat, it would frizz when faced with humidity, taking hours to straighten, only to revert to frizz in mere minutes when exposed to moisture.

One fateful afternoon, driven by frustration, I walked out of the salon, leaving a client half-blowdried and half-curly. Since that day, I’ve never subjected anyone to the indignity of blow-drying their curls.

Interestingly, five years later, I encountered the same client, who had finally chosen to embrace her natural curls. It dawned on me that only those with naturally curly hair feel compelled to straighten it; those with straight hair don’t even consider altering their texture. Wherever there is a curling iron, there are curls yearning to be free.

Few stylists are willing to converse in the “curly language”; it’s far easier to simply smooth things out. That’s why I’ve completely redefined my approach to hairstyling. Curls are dynamic entities that can transform in shape and form, and we, as a diverse, mixed-race society, have a unique opportunity to celebrate our natural hair as a beautiful medium. Each curl is distinct and tells its own story.

What does your morning routine look like for refreshing your curls?

My morning routine begins with gently removing my silk scrunchie from the pineapple bun atop my head, allowing my curls to fall freely. I then lightly mist my curls with a homemade lavender-infused water or rub a small amount into my hands and delicately scrunch it into my hair, letting it settle for a few moments to rejuvenate my curls.

Next, I take a careful look at my curls, selectively refreshing those that may have lost their definition. I apply CurlyWorld’s non-silicone conditioner, Terms & Conditions, to the specific strands that need extra moisture. Sometimes, I create a milky consistency by mixing a dollop of conditioner with a bit of water before applying it to my hair.

To finish, I use CurlyWorld’s Leave-in Lover gel, applying it to the prongs of the Pik Me Up tool, and gently lift at the roots for added volume and bounce.

How do you protect your curls while you sleep?

To safeguard my curls overnight, I utilize a simple pineapple bun, which keeps my curls elevated and prevents them from getting crushed as I sleep. Upon waking, I carefully slide off the scrunchie and let my hair settle naturally, resembling a Christmas tree freed from its confines.

What product do you rely on between washes?

Between washes, my go-to product is a non-silicone conditioner mixed with water to create a refreshing, milky solution. I can comfortably go several days without a full wash, and during these in-between periods, I target specific curls that need attention, applying conditioner to co-wash those areas. This technique revitalizes my curls without any crunchiness, akin to spot cleaning a stain on a dress—there’s no need to wash the entire garment if only one area needs care. As you grow more familiar with your curls, a quick refresh can work wonders in transforming their appearance.

How do you maintain your curls between haircuts?

Many individuals with curly hair prefer to preserve their length and may go six months or more without a haircut, often fearing that trimming will lead to significant length loss, despite the tangles that form as the ends split and cling together like Velcro. I highly recommend performing an at-home trim to breathe new life into the ends of your curls. This simple dusting can yield impressive results, making your curls look rejuvenated and vibrant. To execute this, gently hold the tip of each curl between your index finger and thumb, and with sharp scissors, trim away the frayed ends. This technique has proven effective for both my clients and myself, producing subtle yet impactful changes.

With curls, losing an inch feels more like losing a mile, as shrinkage can easily reduce the appearance of length by up to ten inches. It’s always possible to trim more if needed, but once cut, you can’t put it back.

How do your summer hair care practices differ from your winter ones?

During the summer months, I often place my Leave-in Lover gel in the refrigerator. This cool gel provides soothing relief for my hair’s cuticles on hot, humid days. I also prepare spray bottles filled with three-quarters clean, cooled boiled water and one-quarter of my Terms & Conditions conditioner. This milky mixture is perfect for an on-the-go refresh, especially after a day at the beach or pool, providing hydration to my curls as soon as I emerge from the water. I tend to leave more conditioner in my hair during the summer, as I believe that frizz is simply a curl craving moisture.

Conversely, in the winter, the fluctuating conditions between indoor heating and outdoor cold can lead to friction from wool fibers, scarves, and high collars, contributing to dryness at the ends. Thanks to the lower humidity levels, I find I can extend the time between washes, opting for spot cleans instead. This involves wetting specific areas of my curls and applying conditioner only to those sections that need it. While the initial appearance may seem unusual for an hour, the curls ultimately dry beautifully renewed and refreshed—perfect for busy days or when braving the cold.

What are your thoughts on hair treatments like masks?

I personally steer clear of hair masks! Many ingredients found in masks are often the very substances we aim to eliminate from our hair. If you have a true conditioning product, it should deliver results comparable to any mask or treatment. In the shower, we often rush and make the mistake of rinsing out conditioner too quickly. The hair’s cuticle is thirsty and needs ample time to absorb the product. When I desire a deeper treatment, I apply CurlyWorld’s Sham-Free and/or Terms and Conditions conditioner and leave it on for an extended period before rinsing. Slowly rinsing is a crucial step, as it allows the conditioning agents to penetrate deeply into the cuticle layer, ensuring maximum hydration and nourishment.

Who inspires you in the world of curly hair?

My curly-haired beauty icon is undeniably Zendaya, especially when she showcases her natural curls.

What’s the best hair care advice you’ve ever received, and from whom?

Before silicones became common in haircare products, a dear friend and talented hairstylist in Hong Kong noticed my self-consciousness about my voluminous hair. They suggested leaving more conditioner in my hair to add weight, which would help counteract the weightless, balloon-like appearance of my curls. This was a pivotal moment for me, leading to my commitment to abandon shampoo altogether. My curls and I forged a close bond, and I learned valuable lessons about self-acceptance and embracing life’s uncertainties. It’s amusing yet disheartening that we still grapple with unattainable beauty standards that perpetuate the myth of a “one size fits all” ideal.

What is the most important hair care rule everyone should follow?

As a disclaimer, when I advise against using shampoo, I don’t mean you shouldn’t cleanse your hair; rather, you can clean it without harsh detergents that strip your natural fibers. Understanding what it means to be “clean” is essential; you aren’t as dirty as you think. Ingredients such as silicones, raw oils, and butters are not beneficial for your hair. Salt-based cleansers can leave your hair feeling dry and parched, providing no benefits in return. Over time, these residues can accumulate, hindering your hair’s health. If you continue to straighten your curls, the heat can embed these residues even further.

Can you share the background of the Curl by Curl cutting technique and what it entails?

My last traumatic experience with a wet haircut occurred when I was 16—it left one side at chin length and the other at ear length. The stylist claimed it looked even when wet, but I pointed out that I never wore my hair wet. This experience spurred me to start trimming each curl in its natural resting state, and soon others began asking me to cut their hair the same way.

Our method emphasizes observing and responding to the hair in its natural state, without imposing our own views. It’s crucial to gently assess where each curl and wave resides on the head. What you see is what it is. It’s akin to tailoring a fitted dress; the hair must be cut dry, as we wear our hair dry, not wet. Wet hair can shrink by up to ten inches when it dries, leading to many misunderstandings about curls.

What advice would you give someone considering embracing their natural hair?

Embrace the fact that your curls are a fundamental part of your identity, woven into your DNA. Resisting them will only lead to a tiresome daily struggle. I recommend starting with a simple routine: in the shower, connect with your hair as if it were the most precious fabric you own.

Replace traditional shampoos with sulfate-free cleansers like Sham-Free, massaging the scalp to eliminate buildup. This will help reduce tangles and frizz. Rinse thoroughly and apply a silicone-free conditioner, using your fingers to detangle and encourage curl formation through scrunching. You can choose to rinse out the conditioner entirely or leave some in, depending on your curl type. Finally, blot or scrunch with a t-shirt or reusable paper towel, then apply your Leave-in Lover gel before allowing your hair to air dry or diffuse. The more committed you are to nurturing your natural curls, the more they will respond positively to your care.