We were deeply saddened to learn of the passing of John Bailey, the esteemed former President of The British Society of Perfumers and celebrated artisan perfumer of The Perfumers Guild, who left us on Wednesday, 22nd 2023. John’s legacy in the perfume industry is immeasurable, and his contributions will be cherished by all who knew him.

John was not only a remarkable perfumer but also one of the warmest and most insightful figures within the entire fragrance sector. His generosity in sharing his extensive experience and profound knowledge was unparalleled. He was always ready to assist with research, often providing us with fascinating insights that left us in awe. Jo Fairley, co-founder of The Perfume Society and a dear friend, reflected on John’s impact:

‘John was a vibrant force within the industry, and his fervor for perfumery was unmatched. Those of us who had the privilege of knowing him will profoundly miss him – along with his delightful scented notes!’

The British Society of Perfumers issued a heartfelt statement:

‘As one member eloquently stated: “John was the heartbeat of the British Society of Perfumers.” He joined the society in 2009 and served as president from 2012 to 2014. Remarkably, he was only the second President to dedicate two years to the role, following Robert Favre in 1963.

During his presidency, John championed the creation and publication of a commemorative book celebrating the 50th Anniversary of the BSP. He remained actively involved on the Council and organized various recent events, including a visit to a lavender farm in 2022.

John was honored as the first recipient of the title of Honorary Ambassador to the Society. He embraced this role with enthusiasm, warmly welcoming new members and staying connected with friends of the Society. His passion for the history of perfumery, particularly in the UK, led him to research numerous brands. His illustrious career included roles at Stafford Allen, Naarden International, and RC Treatt, which ultimately inspired him to establish his independent consultancy, The Perfume Guild, in 1981.

With heavy hearts, we mourn his passing while celebrating the richness of a life well-lived.💔’

For those interested in the world of perfumery, you can explore our review of this remarkable book linked above. It’s essential reading for anyone captivated by the art of fragrance, encapsulating a fragrant slice of John’s vast and encyclopedic knowledge.

Years ago, Jo Fairley and I had the distinct pleasure of spending a day with John at his home for an interview featured in our #ShareMyStash series for The Scented Letter Magazine. This delightful day was filled with aromatic exploration and nostalgic stories that we will always treasure. We can think of no better way to honor John’s memory than by sharing that piece with you here…

‘Barbara Cartland had me fragrance her bookmarks and scent her letters’

‘It’s not just about what’s in the bottle – it’s the stories and the people behind them’

Honoring a Legacy: John Bailey’s 90th Birthday Celebrations and His Remarkable Journey in Perfumery

This year, we celebrate John Bailey’s 90^th birthday, a milestone marking an extraordinary career spanning seven decades in the captivating world of scent. As expected, this fragrance expert, scent historian, and behind-the-scenes consultant for leading global brands has curated a remarkable collection of perfumes, which he generously shared with Suzy Nightingale.

Photography Credits: Jo Fairley

There truly is no one quite like John Bailey. It’s not just his striking sky-blue eyes that continue to twinkle with mischief as he enters his tenth decade; it’s also the way he exquisitely perfumes the handwritten letters he still enjoys sending, including regular correspondence to The Perfume Society. Furthermore, it’s not only the incredible length of his career that distinguishes him within perfume circles, but the remarkable breadth of his experiences. He embarked on his journey at the young age of 14 as a ‘lowly laboratory assistant’ and steadily advanced through all the key players in the perfume industry.

Later, he rose to the esteemed role of Dame Barbra Cartland’s ‘personal perfumer’ and established his own fragrance house, The Perfumers Guild, to create bespoke fragrances for a select group of clients. More recently, he served as the President of the British Society of Perfumers—truly, if the British perfume industry had a national treasure, John Bailey would be that treasure.

When John shared a photo of his ‘summerhouse’—a meticulously organized shed at the bottom of his garden, filled with his extensive perfume collection—the co-founder of The Perfume Society, Jo Fairley, felt an irresistible urge to hop on a train and visit John in his fragrant sanctuary.

Upon entering John’s car, we were greeted by the comforting scent of one of his exquisite blends wafting through the air filters, a clear indication that fragrance permeates every aspect of his life. Over tea and biscuits, served beautifully by his wife Sheila in their immaculate conservatory, adorned with a congratulatory diamond wedding card from Her Majesty The Queen, John chuckled as he reminisced about his career timeline. ‘I suppose the best way to describe it to you is that my career has evolved rather than being meticulously planned,’ he shared. And evolve it certainly did…

With a humble reflection that he ‘wasn’t particularly good at anything in school… my sister was the smart one,’ John’s parents gently encouraged him to pursue an apprenticeship with John Richardson & Co, a well-established firm known for manufacturing chemicals, drugs, and distillates in his hometown of Leicester. ‘They produced a wide variety of products, including pills, potions, lotions, tinctures, and veterinary supplies.’

His journey began with those simple lozenges—handcrafted exclusively for the Brompton Hospital in London. ‘The mixture was meticulously kneaded and prepared with a precise percentage of essential oils, such as English peppermint oil, then rolled, cut out, and stamped. As an apprentice, I had to repeat this process over and over, making sure the weight was exactly right. If it wasn’t, the dosage of the essential oil would be incorrect. Later, I learned that this same technique applies to measuring ingredients for perfumes, demanding a high level of accuracy.’

As time went on, it became evident that John’s true passion lay in the botanical and aromatic aspects of the business. He elaborates, ‘In those days, pharmacies would bulk purchase fragrances, which they would then transfer into their own bottles for retail.’ Many chemists procured their fragrances from the same supplier they sourced their lozenges and other medicinal products, leading John to gain valuable experience in blending perfumes.

The next chapter of John’s career can be attributed to ‘serendipity,’ as he describes it. He joined a prominent retail chemist, Cecil Jacobs, who opened a shop beneath the Grand Hotel in Leicester. When Jacobs acquired an ancient apothecary, John received comprehensive training in all facets of sales, marketing, ingredient sourcing, merchandising, and the production of fine fragrances, cosmetics, and toiletries. It’s likely that no one in the entire perfume universe has had such a well-rounded apprenticeship. Perhaps his most fortuitous encounter was meeting a fellow employee, Sheila, with whom he would later build a beautiful family, raising three daughters together.

From this point, John transitioned to the historic Quaker company Stafford Allen (SAS), known for cultivating and distilling essential oils. ‘I spent months rotating through every department before they appointed me as their technical representative. My thirst for knowledge was insatiable. Unlike today, where aspiring perfumers are often required to attend ISIPCA or undergo specialized training, my learning journey was hands-on and practical.’

This experience instilled in him a great respect for the increasing number of self-taught niche perfumers emerging today. ‘I believe it’s unproductive to take a superior stance and claim that “these individuals haven’t been trained at such-and-such a place”—many of us followed similar paths in the past!’

He recalls the inception of the role of ‘evaluator’—individuals tasked with bridging the gap between clients and perfumers, facilitating communication to ensure the creative brief was met to satisfaction. ‘This new role was met with consternation from perfumers, who felt threatened by these outsiders meddling with their formulas!’

From 1979 to 1981, he worked for the fragrance house RC Treatt, where he established a perfumery from the ground up. Unfortunately, the entire venture was unexpectedly shut down, leaving John and his team in distress, as it marked the first time he found himself unemployed. ‘However, this setback motivated me to become independent,’ John insists. ‘I resolved to never work for anyone else again. Thus, I launched my own company, The Perfumer’s Guild…’

His inaugural bespoke perfume was created for the Royal National Rose Society—a quintessential English rose scent aptly named Society, with the first bottle presented to Penelope Keith, followed by Felicity Kendal and other celebrities who were honored with roses named after them.

John’s subsequent client was none other than Dame Barbara Cartland—renowned for her pink gowns, fluffy dogs, and glamorous Rolls Royce. After reading an article in which the bestselling romance novelist lamented the decline in perfume quality, John reached out with an offer to create a custom fragrance for her. The response was overwhelmingly positive, resulting in a long-term collaboration where he crafted all the fragrances for her extensive wardrobe. The debut scent he formulated for Dame Barbara was fittingly titled Scent of Romance—‘an oriental, decadent, and luxurious fragrance. She also had me fragrance her bookmarks and scent her letters.’ On one memorable occasion, he recalls being introduced at a lavish reception by a uniformed footman as ‘Mr. John Bailey, Ambassador to Dame Barbara Cartland!’

John was among the pioneers in incorporating oudh into Western perfumes and even showcased a stunning gold metal chest filled with this precious Arabian wood. Unfazed by complacency, John also played a crucial role in reviving the prestigious British perfume house Atkinsons, thanks to his friendship with Michael Edwards (author of Perfume Legends and the renowned perfume industry reference, Fragrances of the World). Michael introduced him to the new Italian owners after they acquired Atkinsons, saying, ‘These individuals have lost much of their heritage and are uncertain of how to proceed with this treasure.’ As a result, John was appointed as the official researcher before the brand’s relaunch, and he is delighted that Atkinsons will soon open in Burlington Arcade—just around the corner from where this iconic perfume house originally began.

Yet, beyond his captivating personal history, we were also eager to