Exploring the Enduring Allure of Gourmand Fragrances: A Look Back at The Scented Letter’s 2017 Insights
In 1992, Thierry Mugler’s Angel sent shockwaves through the fragrance world, paving the way for an entirely new category of scents known as ‘gourmand’. As we celebrate its remarkable 25-year legacy, Senior Writer Suzy Nightingale delves into the elements that make this fragrance a timeless classic. Accompanying this exploration are stunning photographs by Jo Fairley.
The rise of dessert-inspired perfumes that tantalize both the palate and the olfactory senses has transformed the fragrance landscape. While it may seem as though these indulgent scents have always been part of our fragrance repertoire, the reality is that the perfumista’s craving for sweet aromas has only been truly fulfilled for around twenty-five years. Unleashing an innovative blend of candy floss, caramel, and a unique combination of red berries and patchouli—which took two years to perfect—Mugler’s Angel not only redefined fragrance classifications but also birthed a new genre that has since captivated perfume lovers worldwide.
The term ‘gourmand’ itself translates from French to mean ‘greedy’—a fitting descriptor for those who indulge in aromatic temptations. These fragrances evoke memories of delightful feasts, reminiscent of rich dishes lavishly topped with chocolate, drizzled with honey, and adorned with sugary delights. Imagine warm cookies fresh from the oven, enticing aromas of roasting nuts, and ice creams dripping with sweetness. Regardless of personal opinions on the original Angel, it undeniably marked the dawn of a new era in fragrant epicureanism, tapping into the vibrant zeitgeist of the 90s—a time characterized by bold music and fashion movements that celebrated individuality and self-expression. However, not everyone was prepared for this revolutionary ‘scent bomb’. Our Editor, Jo Fairley, recalls her initial reaction to the launch, which was presided over by Mugler’s then-president, Véra Strubi, in an opulent setting on Bond Street. “I remember the moment I was presented with the freshly sprayed scent of Angel; the surprise on my face must have been evident because the PR representative asked, ‘Jo, are you OK?’ It was one of only two times in my career that I truly experienced ‘olfactory shock.’ It was entirely unlike anything I had encountered before, leaving me momentarily stunned. Eventually, after much contemplation, I grew to appreciate Angel as a masterpiece, though I acknowledge it may not resonate with everyone,” Fairley reflects.
Understanding Gourmand Fragrances: A Journey into Temptation
The creative team behind Angel had a strong intuition that they were about to revolutionize the fragrance industry. Crafted by master perfumer Olivier Cresp and talented nose Yves de Chiris, the project received substantial creative input from Mugler himself, alongside guidance from Strubi. In an interview with Michael Edwards for his book Perfume Legends, Cresp reminisced about Mugler’s vivid descriptions of the aromas that inspired Angel: the caramel scent of candied apples, the nostalgic notes of candy floss, and the lively atmosphere of a funfair. Initially conceived as a blend of chocolate, honey, and vanilla, Cresp later praised Yves’ addition of patchouli as a stroke of genius that would elevate the composition.
De Chiris elaborated further in his conversation with Edwards, emphasizing that the essence of a funfair is often captured by the scent of fresh sawdust, mingling with the bittersweet aroma of wooden stalls. He described how this blend reminded him of the warm, bittersweet notes of patchouli, highlighting the need for a balance between bitter and sweet to create a harmonious fragrance. Thus, Angel underwent numerous transformations, with patchouli serving as a foundational ingredient. Initially codenamed ‘Patchou,’ the first 60 variants of the fragrance revolved around patchouli and vanilla. It was only through the combined nostalgic recollections of Cresp and Mugler, during a lengthy discussion about childhood memories of fairgrounds and chocolate, that the fragrance’s true direction was solidified.
Through his previous experience in the flavors industry in America, Cresp found a way to intertwine food and fragrance, leading to a series of gastronomic experiments. “I tested various combinations of chocolate, praline, and cocoa,” Cresp explained. “There were days when the balance swung too far towards cocoa or honey. After two years of trial and error, I finally achieved the perfect balance.” This harmony was realized with a significant dose of ethyl maltol, which mimics the scent of cotton candy and caramel, combined with red fruits and an impressive 30% of natural patchouli to create an unforgettable olfactory experience.
Interestingly, when Angel finally launched, the fragrance industry was left in disbelief at the boldness of such an unconventional scent. As Sophie Bensamou, Vice President at the North America Fine Fragrances Division of Symrise, observed, the fragrance was initially labeled as “addictive,” while others found it to be rather peculiar. It took time for the global audience to embrace this innovative trend in perfumery.
Reflecting on the reasons behind Angel‘s staggering success, Cresp shared with blogger Persolaise, “Its uniqueness and sheer difference were undeniable. Deep down, I felt it had the potential to be a success; I believed it could become number one.” Indeed, in various markets worldwide, Angel eventually overshadowed even the iconic Chanel No.5.
Since the launch of Angel, a plethora of gourmand fragrances have emerged, satisfying our cravings for sweetly scented indulgences, marking it as a significant trend in the fragrance industry as we moved into 2017. Interestingly, Angel was introduced during a time of global uncertainty, amidst an economic downturn. Now, twenty-five years later, with the world facing similar upheaval, one must ponder: are gourmand fragrances the olfactory equivalent of comfort food? A way to indulge without the calories?
With an ever-growing collection of dessert-inspired scents available for perfume enthusiasts of all genders, we can only hope that this trend continues, allowing us to indulge in the sweet pleasures of fragrance.
Tracing the Origins of Gourmand Fragrances: From Shalimar to La Petite Robe Noire
The Pioneering Influence of Guerlain on Gourmand Scents
From a technical standpoint, modern gourmand fragrances fall under the larger category of Oriental scents. However, to trace the true lineage of the gourmand family, we must look back to the iconic Guerlain Shalimar, which captivated fragrance enthusiasts and marked the dawn of an entirely new lineage of sweet, alluring fragrances.
In 1925, Jacques Guerlain made a bold move by incorporating ethylvanillin, a groundbreaking synthetic gourmand molecule, into the already beloved Jicky accord, effectively laying the groundwork for the sweet fragrances that would follow. Vanilla has become a staple in the renowned ‘Guerlinade’ base, which includes a harmonious blend of rose, orris, tonka bean, orange blossom, jasmine, sandalwood, and bergamot—elements featured in many of Guerlain’s masterpieces.
According to the legendary fragrance house, “Vanilla is a cherished raw material among our perfumers.” It has transcended generations, appearing in diverse forms: delightful in Shalimar, surprising in Jicky, and swirling in La Petite Robe Noire. Among the delectable offerings in Guerlain’s collection is the 2002 launch of Spiritueuse Double Vanille, a fragrance that encapsulates the essence of vanilla and rum liqueur—a must-have for any gourmand enthusiast. Interestingly, Guerlain notes that just like adding a touch of vanilla essence to a cake batter, Spiritueuse can seamlessly blend with other Guerlain fragrances for a personalized touch.
By 2012, Guerlain began to incorporate a playful fruitiness into the rich vanilla base with La Petite Robe Noire, which introduced notes of black cherries and the smoky undertones of black tea. In 2014, in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser crafted a more pronounced gourmand interpretation of the classic Shalimar with the mouthwatering Shalimar Souffle de Parfum, followed by the recent La Petite Robe Noire Intense, which deepened the sweetness with hints of blueberries. Clearly, the dessert course remains firmly on the menu.
The Explosion of Gourmand Fragrances: A Sweet Revolution in Perfumery
Celebrating the Sweetness of Gourmand Fragrances
While Angel may not have been the first fragrance to showcase the luscious notes of vanilla (which have long been celebrated in Guerlain’s creations) or the indulgence of ethyl maltol (notably featured in L’Artisan Parfumeur’s 1978 Vanilia), it undoubtedly became the defining fragrance of the gourmand genre due to its sheer originality. Launched against a backdrop of light, aquatic scents, Angel burst onto the scene with an explosion of candy-floss and ‘fruitchouli’, akin to the punk movement crashing a nouvelle cuisine gathering and showering guests with pastries.
Had you presented concepts of chocolate, cupcakes, spun sugar, and marzipan to perfumers from previous generations, they would have likely raised eyebrows, suggesting you satisfy your cravings with an éclair. However, these decadent flavors were far from mere novelties. Following Angel‘s release, food-inspired notes began to infiltrate the compositions of numerous blockbuster fragrances.
Hanae Mori’s Butterfly (1996) introduced sugared strawberries mixed with almonds. That same year, Lolita Lempicka (now known as Lolita Lempicka Le Premier Parfum) tantalized with licorice and praline. Dior’s Hypnotic Poison (1998) paired bitter almonds with creamy musks, while Addict (2002) emphasized the irresistible nature of vanilla.
Furthermore, Calvin Klein’s Euphoria (2005) harmonized persimmon, pomegranate, and cream, while Paco Rabanne’s Black XS Cologne—notably a male gourmand scent released two years before its female counterpart—combined lemons with sage, praline, and cardamom. Perhaps one of the most unapologetically sweet fragrances of recent times is Viktor & Rolf’s Bonbon (2014), presented in a glass bow-shaped bottle, celebrating its layered caramel sweetness.
Other noteworthy gourmand-inspired scents include the caramel coffee notes of A*Men by Mugler (1996), the spiced cocoa of Guerlain’s L’Instant Pour Homme (2004), and the coffee-and-hazelnut fusion found in Valentino’s Uomo (2014). Not to be overlooked, Zadig & Voltaire introduced the sublime, salty vanilla fragrance This Is Him! (2016). It’s worth noting that many men have embraced women’s gourmand fragrances for years, finding them irresistibly delicious on their skin.
Discovering Decadent Vanilla Scents
● GUERLAIN SHALIMAR SOUFFLE DE PARFUM evokes the sensation of indulging in lemon meringue.
● SERGES LUTENS UN BOIS DE VANILLE offers toasted marshmallow aromas, enveloping you in a cozy campfire ambiance.
● JERABOAM INSULO presents a sinful custard experience that is delightfully indulgent.
Indulging in Caramel Delights
● THIERRY MUGLER ANGEL delivers a decadent dessert experience.
● VIKTOR & ROLF BONBON tantalizes with its naughtiness and sweetness.
● SHAY & BLUE SALT CARAMEL offers a liquid embrace of comfort.
Exploring Heavenly Honey Scents
● ARMANI CODEentices with sophisticated floral garlands.
● MARC JACOBS HONEY presents fresh pears soaked in sweetness.
● EVODY ONDE 7 provides a soothing floral amber experience.
Fruity Infusions
● PACO RABANNE BLACK XS FOR HER beckons with chocolate cherries.
● LIBRARY OF FRAGRANCE STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM combines summer’s best flavors.
● JUICY COUTURE VIVA LA JUICY EXTRAIT DE PARFUM elevates forest fruits to glamorous heights.
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