Tela Organics features natural ingredients.
Biotop Professional rolled out a quinoa-based hair oil.
Indeed, salon service revenues in the United States surged by 23% in 2021, as reported by market research firm Kline & Company, a recovery from the pandemic-induced closures that had previously impacted businesses.
“From baby braids to bubble braids, braiding emerged as the fastest-growing salon service in the US during 2021,” stated Paula Gottdiner, project manager at Kline and author of the report “Braids, Beards and Bronzing Boost the Comeback of Salons.”
The surge in braiding services likely originated during the pandemic when salon visits were limited. Individuals with unmanageable hair turned to braids as a stylish solution to conceal split ends and faded color, while also controlling their longer tresses. As salons reopened, the demand for braiding services exploded, showing a remarkable 72% increase last year, which resulted in a staggering revenue increase of 105%. This trend is further evidenced by the rise in social media mentions related to braids.
Simultaneously, 2021 marked the rise of the ‘scruffy man’ phenomenon, as noted by Gottdiner of Kline. With more time spent at home, many men embraced the opportunity to grow out their beards, often adopting the mindset that grooming wasn’t as necessary since social interactions were limited. Consequently, beard services became one of the few categories to see modest declines in both the US and Canada. However, the latter half of the year witnessed an uptick in beard services, suggesting that men began to realize the importance of maintaining their facial hair with professional grooming. For instance, Reuzel’s Beard Balm saw an impressive 58% increase in sales in the US, according to Kline.
Consumers were also focused on pampering and self-care for their hair. In-salon hair treatments saw a significant rise in both demand and revenue, increasing by 26%. This trend, often referred to as the “skinification” of hair, continued to gain traction in 2021 with the popularity of clarifying, conditioning, and scalp-care treatments. Clients began extending their salon experiences by purchasing at-home conditioner and treatment products. Notably, items designed for repair and conditioning experienced a remarkable 65% sales increase. The K18 Leave-in Molecular Repair Hair Mask emerged as a top seller in 2021, according to Kline, along with the Hair and Scalp Intensive Treatment Masque from J Beverly Hills, which saw a 27% increase in sales.
The escalating interest in hair care products shows no signs of waning. In fact, over 90% of US consumers continue to express strong interest in hair-related products, taking their routines to new heights, as noted by the market research firm The NPD Group based in Port Washington, NY. This category is anticipated to continue growing through 2024, with an average gain of 15% in the US over the next two years.
Compared to the previous six months, a growing number of consumers plan to invest in targeted hair-related products, including hair and scalp treatments, relaxers, chemical straighteners, hair gummies, and vitamins, according to the latest “Future of Hair” report from NPD.
The increased demand for hair care, combined with consumers’ loyalty to effective products, are key factors driving the ongoing success of this category. More than half of hair product consumers report that once they find a product that works for them, they remain loyal to it; furthermore, 49% are willing to pay a premium for products that deliver results.
Salon clients of all ages still enjoy a visit to a stylist for a cut or color.
R+Co’s Ring Tone gel creme styles curly hair
Of course, the demand for healthy and strong hair remains a priority for salon clients.
According to Michael Duenas, a celebrity hairstylist and founder of Veluer Creative in Los Angeles, the trend of rebuilding hair from the inside out is gaining momentum.
“Focusing on hair health is key, starting from within,” he stated in an interview with Happi. “Even styling products nowadays prioritize hair health. It’s more about achieving healthy hair that can be styled rather than making unhealthy hair merely look healthy. Shiny finishes are crucial; matte looks are fading away, making room for high-gloss appearances that signify healthy hair.”
In the past, oil was often viewed as something to eliminate from both skin and hair. It was not traditionally regarded as an acceptable ingredient by consumers. However, hair expert Philip Pelusi of Tela Beauty Organics—who frequently contributes to Happi’s Expert Opinion column—points out that not all oils are created equal, and consumers are increasingly seeking out beneficial and often overlooked organic oils in salon products.
“These untapped natural oils act as effective hydrators for the scalp and hair, offering heat protection and creating a lustrous shine. We specifically choose oils that are soluble in shampoo, preventing any buildup on the hair or scalp,” Pelusi elaborated about salon hair care. “Remarkably, they perform admirably on various hair textures.”
Pelusi favors cold-pressed oils, which maintain their nutritional properties during processing.
“Through the advanced Micro Emulsion Technology, we optimize their molecular size for deeper and quicker absorption into the hair fiber and scalp surface. The benefits extend far beyond the surface,” he added.
Pongamia glabra (karanja) seed oil stands out among Pelusi’s latest launches, Tela Beauty Organics Magic Hair Transformer. This oil comes from the seeds of the Millettia Pinnata tree, native to South and Southeast Asia, and encompasses nine essential fatty acids that nourish, hydrate, and function as anti-aging, slip, and heat protection agents. Not only does Pongamia glabra seed oil offer natural antimicrobial, soothing, and antioxidant benefits—helping to preserve hair strength and color from fading—but it also provides UV protection and has been utilized in Ayurvedic medicine to treat skin issues, benefitting the scalp as well.
Redken added 10 Min Color Gel Lacquers to its portfolio.
R+Co Blue Reflective Shine Spray
Pelusi highlights how consumer perceptions have dramatically shifted regarding the coexistence of natural and organic ingredients with scientific advancements. He notes, “In the past, the notion of combining nature with science was not widely accepted.”
“However, at Philip Pelusi, we have always embraced a nature-improved-by-science philosophy in our product development. This approach aligns perfectly with today’s consumer demand for innovation alongside organic and sustainable ingredients,” he shared with Happi. “True transparency begins with our stylists, who serve as the vital connection between the consumer and the product. They bring the product to life through education and expertise.”
Garren, a celebrity stylist and co-founder of R+Co and R+Co Bleu salon hair care in New York, revealed another pressing concern among beauty consumers today: hair loss.
“In the wake of the pandemic, R+Co and R+Co Bleu have excelled in formulating exceptional products that restore stressed hair, enhancing its luxurious feel,” Garren stated. “Many men and women experienced hair loss due to pandemic-related stress.”
He elaborated that all R+Co Bleu formulas are crafted to infuse hair with vital nutrients and strengthen hair follicles. The R+Co Bleu De Luxe Reparative Collection and Ingenious Thickening Collection are designed for individuals dealing with thin, limp, or brittle hair.
“We recently introduced the Sleep Masque Night Repair Serum, which has been a game changer for many clients. Those who have incorporated it into their regimen report that it has completely revitalized their hair,” Garren noted. “This product is designed to provide overnight repair and mend damaged cuticles.”
Innovation is thriving within the professional hair care industry. Garren suggests that the surge may be attributed to consumers experimenting with their hair while salons were closed during the pandemic, often leading to damage.
“Now is the perfect moment to address any damage that has occurred,” he emphasized.
Another significant trend is the demand for shiny, healthy hair.
“We have moved past the era of dull hair; clients now desire hair that is both healthy and radiant,” he shared with Happi. “The R+Co Bleu Reflective Shine Hairspray is exceptional for achieving this. I advise my clients to flip their hair upside down and spray it all over; it provides lightweight shine without heaviness or stickiness, making it easy to carry in a purse. It elevates hair to the next level, and it suits all hair types.”
Additionally, R+Co has launched Ring Tone: Ultra Defining Gel Crème this season. Infused with agave nectar, this formula features notes of Sicilian lemon, tangerine, eucalyptus, green tea, tree moss, and amber, effectively controlling frizz while offering strong hold without dryness or crunch when applied to towel-dried hair. Chia seed extract conditions the hair and enhances shine, while prickly pear oil improves softness and elasticity. The product’s styling polymers provide touchable definition and lasting hold.
Celeste Figueroa, global marketing director at Biotop Professional in Houston, TX, observed that the salon clients of 2022 are increasingly seeking instant results.
Ouidad’s new Advanced Climate Control product
Kerastase debuted refillable packaging for its hair care.
“Consumers have developed a strong desire for instant gratification, seeking benefits that can be observed and felt immediately. As a result, the relevance of quick in-salon treatments that yield instant results is on the rise, delighting clients and encouraging additional purchases to maintain results between salon visits,” she noted in her conversation with Happi.
Biotop Professional’s 911 Quinoa Rinseable Oil Treatment and single-dose Treatment Ampoules are designed to balance pH, condition deeply, and rejuvenate all hair types—especially dry, dull, or damaged hair—in under 10 minutes. This treatment not only strengthens hair but also seals the cuticle and locks in moisture for enhanced shine. Offered in a 30ml bottle or a box of single-use ampoules, these rejuvenating hair oils feature Biotop Professional’s signature quinoa extract, a complete protein with nine amino acids that closely resemble those found in human hair.
Effortless Hair Color Solutions: Redken’s 10-Minute Color Gels
Many men and women opt to conceal gray hair but often struggle to find the time for frequent salon visits to maintain the latest color trends. Redken’s new Color Gels Lacquers 10 Minute allows stylists to color hair and cover grays in just 10 minutes, enhancing efficiency in the salon. This innovative product helps achieve rapid coverage with excellent control, providing up to 100% coverage on even the most resistant white hair. The Color Gels Lacquers 10 Minute line is perfect for quick root touch-ups, walk-in appointments, and add-on services, and can be found at Ulta salons nationwide.
The professional Kérastase brand from L’Oréal is broadening its offerings. The Kérastase Chroma Absolu Bain Chroma Respect is a new shampoo formulated for fine to medium hair, designed to respect and protect color from fading or stripping. This shampoo features a lightweight formula enriched with amino acids and Centella Asiatica (commonly known as gotu kola) to gently cleanse and hydrate hair while ensuring that the fiber remains protected from color loss. The intense hydration offered by this product soothes hair fibers, reducing porosity and delivering essential moisture without weighing hair down, as confirmed by the professional hair care company. Other products in this range include a conditioner, masque, and gloss treatment.
In line with its commitment to sustainability, Kérastase recently introduced 100% recycled and recyclable aluminum bottles. These innovative bottles can be refilled with Kérastase’s new lightweight Eco Pouches, which use 82% less plastic, according to company releases. Notably, these bottles can be personalized with engraving, establishing them as a stylish fixture in any bathroom.
Shampoo eco pouches are available for all of Kérastase’s best-selling washes, including Genesis Bain Hydra-Fortifiant, Genesis Bain Nutri-Fortifiant, Blond Absolu Bain Lumiere, Nutritive Bain Satin 2, Resistance Force Architecte, and the new Chroma Absolu Bain Riche Chroma Respect mentioned earlier. (For further information on sustainable packaging, please refer to page 66 of this issue).
R+Co Bleu’s Sleep Masque Night Repair Serum
In recent developments, Kérastase has expanded its bestselling Genesis collection to cater to men specifically. Formulated for men with weakened hair that is prone to thinning, all products are infused with creatine and ginger root to enhance thickness, volume, and strength.
The new Matrix Instacure collection is designed to repair damaged hair. The brand claims that this anti-breakage system is infused with liquid proteins to restore and strengthen hair that is damaged, dry, and brittle while visibly minimizing the appearance of split ends. The collection consists of a shampoo, conditioner, porosity spray, and scalp treatment, all designed to address damage and different types of breakage, including split ends, root pull, and scalp tension caused by chemical processing, mechanical heat styling, and other factors, according to the brand.
Matrix Artistic Director Nick Stenson from Chicago predicts that the Porosity Spray will emerge as a top-selling product within the Matrix portfolio.
“The Porosity Spray is a true game changer, infused with liquid proteins and vitamin B5. It fills porous strands, diminishes the appearance of split ends, controls static and frizz, and helps balance pH, among other benefits,” he shared with Happi. “Consumers can experience up to 60% less breakage and see noticeable results after just one application!”
The professional hair care market is currently witnessing a surge in personalized hair care lines tailored to meet individual needs, such as Urban Alchemy, which is exclusively available at Sally Beauty, with Cosmo Prof serving as the exclusive professional distributor. The brand’s flagship collection, Prescription Care, is a fully customizable hair care line comprising three bases, seven additives, and additional specialty products. Consumers can personalize their products to address concerns such as added shine, hair growth, repair, volume, moisture, scalp care, or color lock, catering to their unique hair needs and desired results.
Urban Alchemy’s Prescription Care shampoo, conditioner, and hair mask are customizable bases formulated with Omni Signature Complex, which contains antioxidants and nutrients, including rosehip oil, biotin, calcium pantothenate, corn oil, vitamin E, and horse chestnut—all designed to cleanse and moisturize the scalp.
The Prescription Care Alchemies include: Repair, Scalp Care, Hair Density, Color Lock, Moisture, Shine, and Volume. Additional Urban Alchemy Hair Care Solutions feature Blonde Toning Drops, Urban Alchemy Salt Scrub Cleansing Shampoo, and Urban Alchemy Hydrating and Soothing Conditioner.
“Consumers are increasingly seeking personalized solutions, especially regarding hair care. With the complete Urban Alchemy line available exclusively at Sally Beauty, we are expanding our range of professional-quality products, allowing consumers to craft tailored solutions that meet their specific needs and achieve their hair goals, regardless of hair type,” stated Maryann Herskowitz, group vice president of merchandising at Sally Beauty.
This customization feature allows salon professionals to create a personalized formula for their clients, addressing their individual needs. Clients can then purchase their customized hair care mixture to maintain salon-quality results at home.
Addressing the textured hair care market is crucial for expanding professional hair care brands. For instance, popular curly hair brand Ouidad is enhancing its Advanced Climate Control product line with three solutions designed to protect textured hair types from frizz.
Powered by Ouidad’s high-performance Anti-Frizz Nano Technology, the Frizz-Fighting Hydrating Mask, Featherlight Touch-Up Gel Cream, and Frizz-Fighting Touch-Up Balm work to seal the hair cuticle, locking in moisture while keeping humidity at bay. The outcome is curls that are silky-soft, shiny, and possess frizz-free definition. The key ingredient in this line, sericin, imparts moisture, repairs damage, restores elasticity, and shields hair from UV rays.
New for Spring 2022 is the CHI Naturals with Aloe Vera and Hyaluronic Acid Collection.
This line encompasses both body and hair care products, which include a hydrating shampoo, hydrating conditioner, hydrating hair gel, aloe serum, hydrating body wash, and hydrating lotion. Featuring aloe vera and hyaluronic acid, CHI Naturals with Aloe Vera and Hyaluronic Acid delivers a burst of hydration and nourishment, effectively locking in moisture and enhancing shine and softness in both hair and skin.
The collection is designed to minimize frizz and breakage, resulting in radiant, healthy-looking hair, while also keeping skin smooth, soft, and glowing. The formulations incorporate natural ingredients to restore and maintain optimal water balance in hair and hydrate the skin.
Additionally, CHI Naturals with Aloe Vera and Hyaluronic Acid features sustainably manufactured packaging, promoting a circular economy that encourages consumers to reduce, reuse, and recycle.
Embrace Professional Hair Care Trends: Innovations for 2023
From volumizing sprays and shampoos to in-salon color treatments, there is a diverse range of offerings in the professional hair care sector to meet various consumer needs.
“I foresee a significant resurgence in 1990s volume styles, and I’m excited about it. I wouldn’t be surprised to see root boost products making a comeback,” commented Presley Poe, a professional hair stylist based in Portland and a member of the CosmoProf North America artistic team. “Next year will usher in an era where anything goes! We’re witnessing a revival of natural tones alongside a surge in bold, funky colors and beyond. I believe we will all need to focus on products that cater to a well-rounded clientele, emphasizing hair health and color care.”
Garren shared with Happi that during the pandemic, many consumers attempted to color their hair at home, often leading to unsatisfactory results.
“I anticipate that more individuals will seek professional color services in salons next year. They will likely pursue corrective color treatments or explore new looks,” he stated.
Duenas of Veluer Creative predicts that clean beauty will increasingly influence the professional hair care category in product formulation.
“Virtually all professional lines have been categorized as ‘dirty’—the demand for clean alternatives is rising rapidly, and consumers are eager for clean options in salons and at home as health consciousness continues to grow. However, these clean products must demonstrate effectiveness, which remains a work in progress,” he explained.
Stenson from Matrix believes sustainability is poised to become the “next big thing” in salon hair care.
“The year 2023 will likely see brands committing to using less water in their product formulations. For us, this may translate to more concentrated formulas that require smaller amounts per use,” he stated in his conversation with Happi. “This shift will necessitate intelligent formulas that leverage the latest smart technology, simplifying the products we utilize.”
As with other beauty categories, the trend of wellness will also gain traction in salon hair care products. Figueroa from Biotop Professional emphasizes that the treatment experience is paramount.
“Simply offering an effective product is no longer sufficient. Today’s consumers desire products that provide an effective and memorable experience, both in the salon and at home. Hair and scalp care are now seen as integral components of self-care, akin to the rituals clients have come to love in skincare,” she concluded.
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