Stella McCartney’s Clean and Green Skin Care Revolution

LONDON — Summer has arrived in London, and Stella McCartney is sporting stylish strappy sandals, yet her nails are devoid of any polish. This choice reflects her personal preference rather than a statement on politics or environmental issues. While she has used nail polish in the past, she now opts for a more natural look.

At 50, McCartney embraces a minimalist philosophy in her everyday beauty routine, prioritizing simplicity and effectiveness.

“I literally drag my ass out of bed. I brush my teeth. Recently, I’ve been using an eco-friendly toothpaste infused with coconut oil, and it tastes incredible,” she explains. Following a refreshing splash of water on her face, she cleanses and moisturizes using three products from her own clean skincare line, which just launched last month.

“That’s all there is to it. Then I apply some SPF, which opens up a whole other discussion that truly breaks my heart,” McCartney shares, seated on a vintage Italian sofa upholstered in rose velvet at her Bond Street store.

She is perched in an upstairs space where the walls are adorned with handmade papier-mâché, crafted from recycled office paper, and the terrace is lush with greenery, creating a vibrant atmosphere.

“I genuinely doubt we’ll ever find a way to produce sunscreen sustainably, so it looks like we’ll need to wear hats for the rest of our lives. Or we’ll have to face the reality that we’re not perfect. There are always going to be loopholes in everything I do, but I’m upfront about them,” she said, emphasizing her commitment to transparency.

The products she developed—Reset Cleanser, Alter-Care Serum, and Restore Cream—were created in collaboration with her minority partners at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. This ambitious initiative aims to address as many eco-concerns as possible while utilizing the fewest ingredients and products.

“I’m not the type of person who wants to clutter my life with a multitude of products for different areas of my face. I prefer simplicity and effectiveness,” McCartney expresses. “I seek quality that aligns with my values and lifestyle.”

Her makeup routine is equally minimalistic: just a touch of eye crayon and a sweep of mascara. “At the end of the day, my goal is to remove my makeup and cleanse my skin. The thought of using a separate makeup remover is unsettling to me. What even is that?” she queried.

McCartney has applied her extensive textile research and passion for upcycling to her new beauty endeavor.

“Nature offers me a miracle at every turn. Our purpose is to learn from and benefit from it, all while maintaining respect. There’s so much knowledge to gain from this journey, and we are just getting started. This is not a closed chapter,” she remarks.

Earlier this summer, McCartney unveiled a bag crafted from mycelium, a sustainable alternative often referred to as mushroom leather, which is produced using minimal energy. She has partnered with the California-based company Bolt Threads for this innovative mycelium project and has previously created sample garments from mushroom-based materials.

Her commitment to sustainability extends to her long-standing use of deadstock fabrics (occasionally sourced from competing designers) and her ongoing efforts to discover eco-friendly alternatives to traditional fur, leather, and suede. The principles of biodiversity, organic cotton farming, and the preservation of soil capable of absorbing CO2 emissions are central to her fashion house’s ethos.

McCartney firmly believes that to achieve true ethical and sustainable practices, “you must start at the very foundation of the food chain.”

As an adept communicator who has spent much of her life in the media spotlight as the daughter of Paul and Linda McCartney, McCartney articulately shares her views on animal rights, environmental issues, and sustainability without sounding preachy.

In June, she was honored by Queen Elizabeth, receiving recognition as a Commander of the Order of the British Empire (CBE) for her contributions to fashion and sustainability, alongside over 1,000 members of the British public. McCartney is also actively collaborating with Prince Charles on various environmental initiatives and represented the fashion industry at the G7 summit held in Cornwall, England, last year.

Her brand, previously part-owned by Kering until 2019, when LVMH acquired a minority stake, was among the pioneers in luxury fashion to publish an annual environmental profit and loss account, measuring its impact with remarkable precision. Upon partnering with LVMH three years ago, she also took on the role of special sustainability advisor to the company’s founder and owner, Bernard Arnault, and other executive committee members.

In reference to Arnault, she notes, “He is eager to learn and evolve. He has many children and grandchildren, which emphasizes the necessity for sustainability. At LVMH, there is a genuine commitment to the future of the luxury industry,” McCartney explains, highlighting her beauty team at LVMH for their innovative pursuits that exceed her initial expectations.

“They are incredibly driven to discover new methods and solutions,” she adds.

A lifelong vegetarian with a passion for horseback riding, McCartney has championed anti-fur, feather, and leather causes long before they gained mainstream traction. She is particularly averse to the use of animal products in beauty formulations.

She points out that ingredients such as pig stomach lining (a source of collagen) and crushed beetles (used for red pigment) are just a few examples of substances that she finds objectionable.

McCartney asserts that there is no need for animals to suffer for the sake of high-quality skincare and makeup, especially when there are numerous natural alternatives available. “You can create exceptional products that stand up to any competitor without sacrificing style, manufacturing, design, or quality for sustainability,” she contends.

As a mother of four, McCartney has additional motivations for keeping her skincare line clean, uncomplicated, and vegan. “I want my teenage daughter to enjoy using the products, and for them to be safe for her. I want her largest organ to remain free of harmful chemicals at such a young age,” she emphasizes.

Over the past three years, McCartney and her dedicated LVMH team have diligently worked on product formulations and packaging, with the refreshing, grassy scent crafted by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, who describes this project as one of the most fascinating of his career.

Initially, McCartney was hesitant about adding fragrance to her skincare line, believing that scent did not enhance the product’s value. However, over time, she came to appreciate that an appropriate scent could convey a product’s effectiveness.

Kurkdjian recalls that once McCartney consented to include a fragrance, she stressed the importance of utilizing “only what is necessary,” emphasizing the need to maximize the product’s impact with a minimal number of ingredients.

For the fragrance, he explains that McCartney envisioned capturing “the sensation of wind on your face, the scent of distant breezes, and the experience of standing atop a cliff.”

This inspiration aligns with McCartney’s overall vision for the skincare line, deeply rooted in her childhood experiences spent outdoors in Scotland, particularly at her family’s farm on the Kintyre peninsula.

“That aspect was straightforward. The challenge was finding a way to achieve that,” Kurkdjian notes.

He selected from a modest list of around 40 ingredients based on their biodegradability, renewability, and the resources required for their extraction, processing, or creation.

The fragrance features phellandrene found in black pepper, piperitone for a hint of green, caryophyllene for an earthy freshness, and hindinol, which adds tea rose notes alongside what Kurkdjian describes as the “creaminess of sandalwood.”

The primary notes of the scent, named High Cliff, include clove leaf, pine resin, and mentholated eucalyptus.

“We consistently questioned, ‘What does it mean to be green or eco-friendly?’” Despite the occasional frustration, Kurkdjian appreciated the creative challenges posed by the stringent requirements. “That’s when the real innovation occurs,” he remarked.

High Cliff is likely just the beginning of McCartney’s fragrance journey. While LVMH has yet to announce new standalone scents, it would be unexpected if they weren’t already in development. McCartney has previously released fragrances, including Pop, L.I.L.Y., and Stella, but these are no longer available.

Kurkdjian was not the only one pushing for sustainable innovation. McCartney presented similar challenges to the team at Louis Vuitton.

“I aimed to create the cleanest skincare line possible within the luxury sector, the purest of the pure. My goal was to replace harmful ingredients with beneficial ones, rather than inundate the market with products that lacked authenticity,” McCartney explains. “The world doesn’t require me to create products just to fill shelves in Sephora. My motivation stems from providing necessary solutions rather than commercial scale or ownership.”

In a manner akin to her discussions with Kurkdjian, McCartney painted vivid pictures for the LVMH team of her rugged adventures in the Scottish wilderness, expressing her desire for the products to encapsulate the natural beauty of a country she deems “one of the most magical, inspiring places on Earth.”

Always the first among her four siblings to plunge into the icy waters of the loch, McCartney reminisces about the water’s “golden copper-brown hue.” She recalls diving deep and seeing beams of light filtering through, with sparkling minerals all around. “As a teenager, my skin felt fantastic after swimming in that water. It served as a significant inspiration for our work,” she reflects.

She recollects the streams and algae she encountered as a child, along with tadpoles and all the life surrounding her. “I remember the scents of crushed grass, the textures, and the sensations. We were attuned to the topsoil, collecting bluebells and wildflowers to eat. Those moments were magical, and the challenge was how to integrate that essence into our products, bringing the beauty of nature into people’s homes and bathrooms,” she shares.

In response to McCartney’s vision, LVMH established a dedicated maison for the new skincare line within their Luxury Beauty division. This new maison aims to address the complexities linked to building an ultra-clean, green collection, and to “elevate sustainability standards in beauty,” according to Stephane Delva, director of new beauty projects at LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics.

The LVMH/McCartney beauty team, operating between France and England, was tasked with rethinking their approach. McCartney emphasized that ingredients should be few, sustainable, and multifunctional, with all products adhering to cruelty-free, certified vegan standards and the strictest regulations.

All products contain 99 percent or more natural-origin ingredients, with the remaining 1 percent or less consisting of synthetic preservatives.

The raw materials are locally sourced from northern Europe and derived from food waste, including squalene from the olive oil industry and cherry blossom extract, known for its antioxidant properties. Organic rock samphire is also included for its richness in both unsaturated and saturated fatty acids, as well as phytosterols that help smooth fine lines and wrinkles.

Lingonberry extract, a superfood ingredient abundant in polyphenols, is incorporated to enhance skin tone, elasticity, and visible firmness, while organic birch sap provides hydration and restores firmness through its natural minerals, sugars, and vitamin C content.

Patrick Choisy, the director of innovation, natural materials, and sustainable development at LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics, states that the formulas are designed to protect and nourish the skin for long-term health.

The products are also formulated for multifunctionality: the serum can double as an eye contour cream and be used on the décolleté. Depending on her skin’s needs, McCartney alternates between the serum and cream or sometimes mixes them together.

The packaging strikes a balance between disposability and durability. Products are presented in squeezable, baby-food-style pouches fitted inside recycled glass bottles and jars. The pouches, made from monoplastic, are recyclable, while the jars feature airtight pumps crafted from recycled plastic for continued use.

The Restore cream, including its glass jar, retails for $105, with refills priced at $85. The Reset cleanser is available for $60, with refills at $45. The Alter-Care serum is priced at $140, with refills at $110.

While McCartney wishes the prices could be lower, she acknowledges the current reality.

“This is why I insisted on offering refills, as they are more affordable and accessible,” she explains. “Sustainability cannot be cheap—it’s a fallacy, and it does not provide a genuine solution. Anything that is inexpensive generally indicates mass production, which is unsustainable and unreliable in the long term.”

“I may not love that my clothing isn’t as affordable as it could be, but I take comfort in knowing they won’t end up in landfills or be burned. I believe that investing a little more leads to greater quality and appreciation. We simply don’t need the excessive waste that currently saturates the market,” she asserts.

The brand collaborated with an external eco-design partner to reduce its environmental impact and carefully examined every stage of the product lifecycle.

Similar to their fragrance line, McCartney and LVMH have eliminated ingredients associated with polluting production or extraction processes. They have also opted to ship products to the U.S. rather than fly them, which has significantly reduced the carbon footprint of the collection by over a third. The design has also eliminated the need for cotton pads and single-use samples.

Stella skincare will support the NGO Wetlands International, dedicating 1 percent of net sales to the preservation of Scotland’s peatlands, the largest carbon reservoir on the planet, which constitutes roughly 23 percent of the country’s land area. The team notes that over 80 percent of Scottish peatlands are currently in a state of degradation and require immediate attention.

This is not McCartney’s first foray into skincare; she was eager to revive her skincare line after the first collection, Care, was put on hold. At that time, her previous licensee YSL Beauté prioritized her fragrance business and Care was never relaunched.

Launched in 2006, Care was a trailblazer in what we now define as clean beauty. It was the first luxury fashion brand to pursue organic skincare, featuring unconventional ingredients like grape seed oil, white mallow extract, and soybean—considered groundbreaking at the time. All products came with the Ecocert organic certification.

“It was devastating that Care didn’t succeed. It was far ahead of its time, and the market wasn’t ready. The entire experience was a struggle. However, this new line represents a rebirth in the current landscape, and I appreciate it even more because it fulfills my aspirations from then. I am excited about the direction we are taking in beauty, and this new line exemplifies the pinnacle of what we can achieve now,” McCartney shares.

Her ambition is to challenge the norms of the fashion and beauty industries. “I’m no longer just a fashion designer; I am creating luxury products and have inadvertently taken on a semi-political role. I cannot introduce this range to Asia unless I am willing to compromise my stance against animal testing. My goal is to make this accessible globally and advocate for legislative changes,” she emphasizes.

She argues that the beauty industry, in particular, relies on “outdated testing methods and legislation.” Such antiquated approaches, she believes, are “the primary obstacle to progress in our industry. If we continue to utilize the same limited materials and supply chains, we cannot achieve sustainability.”

The distribution model is also unconventional; the line launched directly to consumers last month on stellamccartneybeauty.com, avoiding a large-scale marketing campaign. Industry sources suggest that projected first-year retail sales could reach approximately 20 million pounds, although LVMH has declined to comment on this figure.

Despite her fierce commitment to her mission, McCartney is not an ideologue; she recognizes the nuances and is occasionally willing to find middle ground.

When her teenage daughter requested a trip to the nail salon, McCartney found herself unable to refuse.

“I strive to be a good mom, so when we were in L.A. last summer, I took both my daughters. I thought, ‘I can’t be the eco-warrior who denies my daughters their fun at the nail salon.’ But when I entered the salon, my immediate reaction was, ‘What is that horrific smell?’ It contradicted everything I believe in. I felt like crying. It was just awful,” she recalled.

While more beauty products are on the horizon for Stella, it’s safe to say that nail polish won’t be among them.