“I believe there’s an 80% likelihood that as the Omicron variant and the SarsCov-2 virus continue to evolve, we will witness less virulent strains,” Bancel shared during his appearance on CNBC’s “Squawk Box Asia.” He cautioned, however, about a 20% chance of encountering a new mutation that could be more severe than Omicron.
As we hold onto hope for a smooth recovery, it’s essential to remember the challenges faced in 2020 when mass-market sun care sales plummeted by 8.7%, with unit sales dropping even more significantly by 12.3%, as reported by IRI. This decline was a stark reminder of how quickly the market can shift due to external factors.
The emergence of new Covid-19 variants invariably strains the economy and disrupts travel plans. For instance, during December, the holiday travel season was marred by the cancellation of thousands of flights worldwide, impacting family gatherings and vacations alike.
On Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and the day after, over 6,000 flights were canceled globally, with more than 1,200 cancellations and over 5,000 delays occurring in the US alone on December 26. If a new Covid variant can derail holiday travel, it stands to reason it could also affect summer vacation plans.
“The situation is still fluid, and many factors must be considered,” remarked Peter Stopfer, head of external affairs at Beiersdorf. “Consumer behavior is influenced by various key elements, including geographic location, which continues to play a significant role in determining how quickly individuals can resume their pre-pandemic lifestyles.”
He further emphasized that curfews and other restrictions persist for many individuals globally, impacting their daily routines and leisure activities.
“While some consumers may feel increasingly confident about their personal safety and readiness to move past Covid-19, numerous factors could hinder others from progressing as swiftly as they might prefer,” Stopfer added.
Beiersdorf stands as a significant player in the sun care market with well-known brands like Coppertone, Eucerin, and Nivea.
Interestingly, not all sunscreen brands reported declines during the pandemic. Josie Maran’s sun care line has maintained steady sales over the past couple of years.
“As consumers crave outdoor experiences more than ever due to the pandemic, we foresee an increase in demand for our products in the months ahead,” stated Josie Maran, Founder and CEO.
Fallene Ltd., which markets Cōtz sunscreens, has also seen a surge in sales. Kathy Dwyer, VP of sales and marketing, revealed that 2021 sales soared past pre-pandemic levels.
“While I can’t speak for the entire sun care industry, Cōtz focuses on daily sun protection rather than just beach vacations. Consumers are spending significantly more time outdoors,” Dwyer noted.
Brian Guadagno, founder of Raw Elements, echoed this sentiment.
“Fortunately, our business is stronger than ever,” he shared with Happi. “The pandemic seems to have inspired a greater appreciation for outdoor activities, and there’s a surge in consumer awareness regarding the benefits of mineral sun care.”
Guadagno elaborated that consumers today are increasingly selecting brands that resonate with their personal values and lifestyle choices.
“Today, factors such as ingredient safety, health considerations, and environmental impact hold substantial weight in consumers’ purchasing decisions, especially concerning sunscreen products,” he emphasized. “While there’s still a long way to go, the mineral sun care sector is here to stay.”
Alison Haljun and Kristin Powell, the founders of Kinship, share a similar perspective, especially after their sunscreen was recognized with Allure’s Best of Beauty award.
“There is a significant opportunity for a Gen Z lifestyle brand in this space,” Powell explained. “Gen Z consumers have expressed their disdain for thick, white sunscreens with unpleasant odors.”
In response to these consumer demands, Kinship launched Self Reflect in 2019.
“Our approach was to reinvent the category, viewing it as skincare rather than merely sun care,” Haljun recalled. “The SPF 30 formula starts with 22% zinc oxide but also incorporates ingredients like turmeric, red raspberry seed, and omega-3 fatty acids to combat inflammation. Additionally, it includes a probiotic to help reduce acne and redness.”
“It’s all you need—it’s a one-hit wonder,” Powell described. “Multipurpose products are undoubtedly the future.”
Kinship rolled out Self Reflect Sport SPF 60 last month.
While Kinship may be known for its innovative formulas, they are far from a one-dimensional brand. Recently, they introduced Self Reflect Sport SPF 60. This formula not only contains zinc oxide but also features a triple-ceramide complex designed to enhance the skin’s moisture barrier. Additionally, it includes a postbiotic acerola cherry ferment that is rich in vitamin C to help balance the skin barrier and counteract environmental damage.
“When you’re exercising, you need more than just sunscreen; our formula works to fortify the skin’s moisture barrier,” Powell explained.
The company has also revamped its sunscreen fragrances to now incorporate natural notes of orchid, vanilla, and Bulgarian rose.
“Many sunscreen formulas attempt to mask their chemical smells with overpowering coconut scents,” Powell added.
Retailers are responding positively to these innovations, with Kinship products now available at Ulta and Credo Beauty stores.
In January, Beiersdorf launched the Eucerin Pigment Control Sun Gel-Creme Tinted with SPF50+ in Europe, with plans for a global rollout. Stopfer noted that this marks the first tinted Eucerin Sun product specifically designed for consumers with hyperpigmented skin. It offers comprehensive protection against sun-induced skin damage and features the patented ingredient Thiamidol, which reduces hyperpigmentation and provides coverage for existing dark spots for immediate visible results. The formula is available in both medium and light shades.
Coppertone, another brand under Beiersdorf, has rolled out Coppertone Complete SPF 30 and SPF 50 lotion. Additionally, the brand is relaunching its popular Sport and Glow range, including Coppertone Glow Protect & Tan SPF 30 and SPF 45 Lotion and Coppertone Sport 4-in-1 Performance Spray available in SPF 15, 30, 50, 70, and 100.
Got spots? Nivea Sun has a solution.
Recognizing that sun exposure is a leading cause of dark spots, Nivea has developed the Nivea Sun UV Face Specialist Spot Control Luminous630 SPF 50.
“This innovative, non-greasy facial sun care fluid combines a high SPF 50 for immediate and effective UVA/UVB protection against both short- and long-term skin damage with the unique patented ingredient Luminous630, which helps prevent and visibly reduce sun-induced spots over time,” Stopfer explained.
The formula also contains Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol, which works to brighten the skin and fade dark spots.
Nivea Sun Protect & Bronze and Nivea Sun Intense Bronze have been reformulated with cleaner formulas (excluding ethanolic systems) and more sustainable packaging, featuring a new premium design. Protect & Bronze is designed to deliver dual benefits of immediate and highly effective skin protection against UV rays while activating the skin’s natural tanning process for a beautiful, natural tan. In Western Europe, the formula includes a pro-melanin extract said to enhance melanin production. Intense Bronze assures reliable skin protection and aids in quickly achieving a gorgeous glow for a golden and long-lasting tan. These formulas are enriched with carotene extract and vitamin E, and both have been reformulated for a minimum of 63% biodegradability.
The Protect & Bronze pump spray bottle is made with 95% recycled plastic (excluding the cap and pump), and the cap is made with 47% recycled plastic. A sleeve perforation improves waste separation, according to the company. Additionally, changes to the trigger spray bottles have reduced plastic usage.
Raw Elements’ sunscreen formulas are based on zinc oxide.
Nivea Sun has also revamped its protective and moisturizing sun care lines for children, including Sensitive Protect for Babies & Kids, Protect & Care, and Protect & Play Ultra for Kids. This relaunch features updated formulas, a new design, and practical new product formats, as noted by Stopfer.
“The Nivea Sun Babies & Kids Sensitive Protect products offer a comprehensive 5-in-1 solution, providing very high UVA and UVB protection, extra water resistance, and soothing effects thanks to organic chamomile in the formulas,” he explained. “These gentle formulas have been pediatrician-approved for skin compatibility and are suitable for sensitive skin, including that prone to eczema, for babies over six months old.”
The Nivea Sun Kids Protect & Care range is designed to safeguard the delicate skin of children aged three and older while allowing them to enjoy outdoor playtime. The moisturizing formulas, enriched with organic almond oil and glycerin, protect against dehydration and are extra water-resistant.
“The new Nivea Sun Kids Ultra Protect & Play lotion is an excellent choice for active children who love splashing in the water,” Stopfer added. “This sun cream boasts three times the water resistance and is also resistant to sand and sweat.”
All Nivea Sun Kids products are at least 62% biodegradable, and the pump spray bottles are constructed from 95% recycled materials (excluding the cap and pump).
Raw Elements is also addressing packaging waste. The company has introduced new plant-based bio-plastic flexible tubes across all SPF and product categories. These tubes are crafted entirely from plant sources, bypassing petroleum and boasting a positive carbon footprint.
“One of the most appealing benefits of the plant-based tubes is that they function identically to traditional petroleum plastics. This is also true for their compatibility with all existing recycling infrastructures, making the transition seamless. However, challenges remain in supply chain management, material commitments, and cost increases, but we believe the benefits far outweigh the challenges,” Guadagno stated.
In addition, Raw Elements has transitioned to full PCR packing for all SPF sticks and lip products, as well as zero-waste direct print aluminum SPF tins.
“These packaging innovations represent significant enhancements to our environmental sustainability program, effectively eliminating 99% of virgin plastics from our entire range,” Guadagno explained.
Next month, Raw Elements plans to unveil its All Season collection at REI, designed to meet the diverse needs of sunscreen consumers before, during, and after sun exposure.
“The collection is tailored to cater to outdoor enthusiasts year-round, regardless of the season or conditions,” he elaborated.
While Cōtz Silky Foam isn’t a new product, Fallene Ltd. has refined the formula.
“We’re placing a greater emphasis on environmental benefits while highlighting the effectiveness of this mineral sunscreen,” Dwyer explained. “Silky Foam serves as a fantastic alternative to spray sunscreens, which often end up on surfaces other than the skin needing protection. In contrast, the foam can be easily applied directly to the skin for even coverage.”
Another advantage of Silky Foam is that it’s gluten-free. Dwyer pointed out that for consumers with gluten sensitivity or celiac disease, using gluten-free products is crucial.
“Many retailers now list ‘gluten-free’ as a searchable category in their databases, and since Cōtz products are gluten-free, we aim to inform those consumers,” she stated.
Maran mentioned that formulating mineral sunscreens can be challenging due to the weight and particle size of key SPF actives, which sometimes results in thick formulas that leave a white residue on the skin.
Achieving the right balance of these actives while ensuring optimal UV protection and minimal white cast can be demanding.
“We utilize very fine particles of these actives, and in an exciting upcoming launch, we’ve implemented microsperse dispersion technology, which allows these actives to spread evenly across the skin and blend seamlessly with all skin tones—stay tuned to our socials for more updates!” she stated.
A newcomer to the sun care category, Undefined is gaining attention in the mineral segment, known for its commitment to clean beauty formulations. Founder and CEO Dorian Morris is expanding the brand’s offerings into sun care.
“Investing in SPF is one of the best decisions for skin health and for protecting your skin barrier. However, for many, SPF isn’t a part of their daily routine—either due to difficulties finding suitable formulas for their skin tone or a lack of awareness regarding its importance,” she explained.
Undefined aims to normalize the use of SPF year-round—not just during summer or on vacation—by addressing the main barriers that prevent consumers from making it a staple in their skincare routine. Their R&R Sun Serum is a tinted, broad-spectrum mineral SPF 50 infused with skin-nourishing actives like niacinamide, tremella mushroom, jojoba, rosemary, and raspberry seed.
“The formula is lightweight, fragrance-free, water-resistant, and comes in a universally flattering shade that doesn’t leave a cast, making it ideal for deeper skin tones. Given that inclusivity is a core value for Undefined, ensuring this product appeals to a wide range of skin tones was essential,” Morris stated. “In addition to sun protection, this product also defends against other environmental aggressors like pollution and blue light. Incorporating SPF into your daily routine is made simple with the R&R Sun Serum.”
However, navigating the latest developments—or the lack thereof—in regulatory actions at both the federal and state levels can be quite challenging.
“Time continues to pass, and uncertainty regarding which ultraviolet filters are permissible in sun care products in the US persists,” noted Happi Columnist Nadim Shaath, PhD, president of Alpha R&D. “The ‘Deemed Final Order’ from the FDA has yet to be finalized.”
DSM is currently awaiting FDA approval for its sunscreen active, Bemotrizinol (BEMT). Carl D’Ruiz of DSM confirmed that the company is preparing to support a GRASE determination for BEMT at a 6% concentration as an active ingredient under the FDA’s OTC sunscreen monograph.
“We’re gearing up to initiate several clinical studies, including pivotal MUsT, SPF, and dermal safety studies,” D’Ruiz stated. “Once we complete these studies, we will submit the results along with any other agreed-upon data endpoints to the FDA for their final review. We hope to prepare a GRASE submission document by Q2 2023.”
Once submitted, D’Ruiz anticipates that the FDA will take approximately 7-9 months to render a GRASE determination, potentially leading to a decision by Q1 2024, if all goes according to plan.
D’Ruiz is also the chair of the Personal Care Product Council (PCPC) sunscreen committee, which continues to collaborate with the FDA on industry work plans and methods to ensure the safety of eight sunscreen actives. This month, Alex Kowcz from PCPC will provide updates on consortium activities at both the Photodermatology Society annual meeting in Orlando and the American Academy of Dermatology annual meeting in Boston. D’Ruiz will also be present to share updates on BEMT clinical findings.
At the state level, Shaath noted Hawaii continues its efforts to ban certain ultraviolet filters in sun care products, with recent legislation gaining traction as several bills are actively being discussed in both the House and Senate.
“Naturally, the consumer remains bewildered. In summary, the sun care industry is navigating a period of uncertainty,” Shaath concluded.
In line with this, Guadagno from Raw Elements and other manufacturers of physical sunscreens support the proposed bans in Hawaii.
As reported by Lambros Kromidas in the February issue, Maui County recently enacted an ordinance banning the sale, distribution, and use of any “non-mineral” sunscreens on the island. Additionally, there are proposed state-level bills aimed at expanding Hawaii’s ban on oxybenzone and octinoxate to include all ingredients deemed non-GRASE by the FDA in its final ruling.
Kromidas emphasized the importance of closely monitoring the Maui ordinance, predicting that it will gain supporters and could eventually become law in Hawaii.
“Out of curiosity, I visited the Hawaii State Legislature site (www.capitol.hawaii.gov/) and searched for the keyword sunscreen. I found two Senate bills of interest (SB 2949 and SB 3001) proposed in January, both associated with Senator Mike Gabbard, reflecting the Maui Ordinance,” he shared with Happi.
These bills seek to prohibit the sale and distribution of sunscreen products in Hawaii containing any ingredients not recognized as safe and effective by the FDA.
“Since only zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are classified as GRASE I by the FDA—meaning they are safe and effective—all products containing any other sunscreen actives would be impacted in Hawaii if these bills are enacted,” Kromidas warned. “As Hawaii goes, other regions are likely to follow.”
A year ago, an independent laboratory surprised the sunscreen industry by reporting that it found benzene levels in 78 formulations that exceeded the FDA’s conditionally restricted limit of 2 ppm by threefold. The report implicated brands from major sunscreen manufacturers, including Beiersdorf, Edgewell, J&J, and SC Johnson.
In response to that study, several product recalls were issued. However, in the months following, experts have struggled to pinpoint the source of the benzene contamination. Some industry observers suggested that the contamination may stem not from the formulations themselves but rather from the delivery systems used.
Addressing the benzene concerns, Stopfer reported that Beiersdorf has taken steps to resolve issues related to the Coppertone recall that occurred last year.
“As always, consumer safety and the uncompromising quality of our products remain our top priorities,” he affirmed.
Guadagno remarked that any contamination issues should be taken seriously by individual companies and the industry as a whole.
“We certainly have and have engaged our own toxicologists to ensure we adhere to best compliance practices. Transparency continues to be our guiding principle in every aspect of our operations,” he stated. “We do not use benzene or any benzene derivatives in our formulas. The means by which small traces of benzene contamination entered the sunscreen sector remains uncertain. To guarantee this issue does not arise in the future, we conduct third-party testing on every batch before release and ensure that this information is accessible to consumers who are interested. This is the most effective way to certify against the issue.”
Across nearly every fast-moving consumer goods category, shoppers increasingly express a desire to know the ingredients in the products they purchase and their environmental impact. Guadagno pointed out that Raw Elements consumers are outdoor enthusiasts who prioritize health, wellness, and environmental responsibility, making informed and responsible purchasing decisions.
“Our brand ethos revolves around ingredient sourcing, social responsibility, and environmental stewardship. Today’s consumers expect more from us as a brand and demand higher standards from the sunscreens we offer,” he expressed.
With such a strong following, Raw Elements continues to expand its retail presence, achieving a growth rate of 25-30% year-over-year. The company has significantly increased its presence within Target this year.
“This signals that consumers are willing to invest in premium products within the sun care category,” Guadagno noted.
Raw Elements’ footprint in REI stores across the country is also expanding. In April, the company broadened its all-season collection within select locations as an “Outdoor Apothecary.” Guadagno emphasized that this move enhances its offerings to outdoor enthusiasts as a comprehensive “head-to-toe” brand for all-day use.
Lastly, Raw Elements is intensifying its public sunscreen dispenser initiative in collaboration with local and state governments, retailers, and hospitality venues.
“We have invested considerable resources into this initiative,” Guadagno asserted. “Though costly, we are committed to educating the public, driving change, and supporting the environmental and health movements within the sun care industry.”
Undefined has also expanded its distribution into Target stores nationwide. Morris emphasized that this move is vital in redefining inclusivity in retail, as representation matters greatly.
“Seeing oneself reflected on the shelves is empowering,” she argued. “(Inclusivity) encompasses more than just skin color; it also involves information inclusivity and economic inclusivity.”
Morris explained that the new R&R Collection adopts a “clean-ical” approach, combining potent clinically proven actives with ancient plant wisdom to produce accessible and affordable products.
“Undefined is designed to meet consumers where they are on their wellness journeys, demystifying plant-based solutions so that individuals feel comfortable, empowered, and equipped to thrive,” she stated. “Wellness should not be exclusive or elusive—it’s time to democratize it.”
Below is a list of innovative sun care ingredients introduced by industry suppliers over the past year. For more information on the listed products, please contact the respective suppliers directly using the information provided.
Botanicals Plus
Boca Raton, FL USA
Tel: 973-439-1417
[email protected]
www.botanicalsplus.com
Superfruit FermBiotic G
INCI: Water (and) Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (and) Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract (and) Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract (and) Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Fruit Extract
Applications: All sunscreen applications
Use levels: 1-3%
Comments: Superfruit FermBiotic G. is a fermented, phytonutrient- and antioxidant-rich complex that provides optimal environmental protection with pre- and postbiotic properties for skin
Sienna Blake is a licensed aesthetic consultant and beauty writer specializing in cosmetic surgery advancements and non-invasive treatments. With a background in dermatology and over eight years of industry experience, Sienna is passionate about helping people achieve confidence through informed beauty decisions. She holds a Bachelor's degree in Health Sciences and regularly collaborates with top plastic surgeons to stay at the forefront of aesthetic innovations. Outside of her work, Sienna enjoys traveling, skincare research, and practicing Pilates.
