In light of this potential good news, we remain hopeful. The sun care market’s recovery is crucial, especially considering the steep decline in mass-market sun care sales during the pandemic. According to IRI, unit sales fell by 12.3% in 2020, reflecting the overall uncertainty of consumers during that tumultuous time.
Each announcement regarding new Covid strains tends to create ripples across the economy, affecting sectors like travel significantly. For example, in December, a surge in flight cancellations affected holiday travel plans, with over 6,000 flights canceled globally during the festive period. In the United States alone, more than 1,200 flights were canceled on December 26, and over 5,000 were delayed. Such disruptions highlight how a single variant can have a cascading effect on vacation plans, reminding us of the fragility of consumer confidence.
Peter Stopfer, who leads external affairs at Beiersdorf, emphasizes the dynamic nature of the current situation, stating that various factors influence consumer behavior, such as geographic location. This aspect significantly impacts how quickly individuals can return to their pre-pandemic lifestyles and routines. Many regions still face curfews and restrictions, affecting daily life and leisure activities.
While some consumers may feel more at ease and are eager to move past Covid-19, others remain hesitant, influenced by ongoing uncertainties and health concerns. Stopfer’s insights reflect the broader sentiment that while progress is being made, the path to full recovery is not uniform across the globe.
Beiersdorf plays a significant role in the sun care market, boasting well-known brands such as Coppertone, Eucerin, and Nivea. Not all brands experienced a downturn during the pandemic; for instance, Josie Maran’s sun care line has maintained steady sales, reflecting a shift in consumer behavior.
“The pandemic has prompted consumers to seek outdoor experiences more than ever,” stated Founder and CEO Josie Maran. “We expect this trend to continue growing as people prioritize spending time outside.”
Fallene Ltd. reported remarkable growth for its Cōtz sunscreen products. Kathy Dwyer, VP of sales and marketing, noted that 2021 sales far exceeded pre-pandemic levels. She highlighted that Cōtz focuses on daily sun protection rather than just beach excursions, indicating a broader lifestyle shift toward outdoor activities.
Brian Guadagno, founder of Raw Elements, echoed these sentiments, sharing that their business has seen unprecedented strength during this period. “The pandemic has driven people outdoors, and there is a growing awareness regarding the benefits of mineral-based sun care products,” he stated, noting that consumers are increasingly choosing brands that align with their personal values and lifestyles.
Guadagno elaborated on the importance of ingredients, health considerations, and environmental sustainability in today’s sunscreen market. “Consumers today are more informed and discerning about the products they use, particularly sunscreens,” he asserted. “While there is still much work to be done, it is clear that the mineral sun care segment is here to stay.”
Alison Haljun and Kristin Powell, the founders of Kinship, have also tapped into this evolving market. Their sunscreen product recently received the Allure’s Best of Beauty award. “There’s a significant opportunity for a lifestyle brand targeting Gen Z consumers,” Powell explained, noting that this demographic has expressed dissatisfaction with traditional sunscreens that are often thick, goopy, and unpleasantly scented.
Responding to these consumer demands, Kinship launched Self Reflect in 2019, marking a shift in how they approached sun care. “We think of our sunscreen as skincare,” Haljun recalled, emphasizing the innovative formulation that includes 22% zinc oxide along with skin-soothing ingredients like turmeric and red raspberry seed oil.
“This product serves multiple purposes and is incredibly effective,” Powell added. “Multi-functional products are clearly the future of sun care.”
Kinship recently introduced Self Reflect Sport SPF 60.
While Kinship’s products are certainly standout offerings, they are not resting on their laurels. The company recently launched Self Reflect Sport SPF 60, which not only contains zinc oxide but also features a unique triple-ceramide complex designed to enhance the skin’s moisture barrier. This new formula also incorporates postbiotic acerola cherry ferment, rich in vitamin C, to help balance the skin barrier and counteract environmental stressors.
“When engaging in physical activities, it’s essential to have more than just sunscreen; our formula is crafted to strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier,” Powell explained, highlighting the product’s thoughtful formulation. Additionally, Kinship has reformulated its sunscreen fragrances to incorporate natural notes like orchid, vanilla, and Bulgarian rose.
“Many sunscreen products attempt to mask their chemical scent with overpowering coconut aromas,” Powell noted, emphasizing the importance of a pleasant sensory experience in sun care products.
Retailers are taking notice of these innovations, as Kinship’s products are being stocked at popular outlets like Ulta and Credo Beauty. In January, Beiersdorf launched Eucerin Pigment Control Sun Gel-Creme Tinted with SPF50+ in Europe, with plans for a global rollout. This is the first tinted Eucerin Sun product specifically designed for consumers with hyperpigmented skin, offering robust protection against sun-induced skin damage. Thanks to the patented active ingredient Thiamidol, it aims to reduce hyperpigmentation and visibly cover existing dark spots.
Coppertone, another leading brand under Beiersdorf, has introduced a new range of products including Coppertone Complete SPF 30 and SPF 50 lotion. The brand is also relaunching its much-loved Sport and Glow range, which includes Coppertone Glow Protect & Tan SPF 30 and SPF 45 Lotion; Coppertone Sport 4-in-1 Performance Lotion in various SPF levels from 15 to 100.
Nivea Sun offers specialized solutions for dark spot concerns.
Recognizing that sun exposure is a significant trigger for dark spots, Nivea has developed its Nivea Sun UV Face Specialist Spot Control Luminous630 SPF 50. This innovative, non-greasy facial sun care fluid provides high SPF 50 protection against both short- and long-term skin damage and incorporates the patented Luminous630 ingredient to help prevent and visibly reduce sun-induced spots over time.
The formula includes Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol, known for its brightening properties and ability to fade dark spots, making it a suitable choice for those concerned about hyperpigmentation.
Nivea Sun Protect & Bronze and Nivea Sun Intense Bronze have been enhanced with cleaner formulas and more sustainable packaging options. Protect & Bronze is designed to provide immediate, effective protection against UV rays while stimulating the skin’s natural tanning process, resulting in a beautifully bronzed appearance. In Western Europe, this formula includes a pro-melanin extract that boosts melanin production, while Intense Bronze ensures reliable skin protection and aids in achieving a golden and long-lasting tan, enriched with carotene extract and vitamin E.
Both formulas have been reformulated and now boast a minimum of 63% biodegradability. Furthermore, the Protect & Bronze pump spray bottle is crafted from 95% recycled plastic (excluding the cap and pump), and the cap is made from 47% recycled plastic. These efforts include a sleeve perforation to facilitate better waste separation, and changes in trigger spray bottles have significantly reduced overall plastic content.
Raw Elements emphasizes sustainability in its products.
To cater to children, Nivea Sun has relaunched its comprehensive sun care ranges, including Sensitive Protect for Babies & Kids, Protect & Care, and Protect & Play Ultra for Kids. This relaunch includes updated formulas, fresh designs, and practical product formats catering to young audiences.
“Nivea Sun Babies & Kids Sensitive Protect products provide a 5-in-1 solution that delivers very high UVA and UVB protection, enhanced water resistance, and a soothing effect, thanks to the inclusion of organic chamomile,” Stopfer explained. “These gentle formulas have been pediatrician-approved for their skin compatibility and are suitable for sensitive skin, including that of babies over six months old.”
The Nivea Sun Kids Protect & Care range is designed for children over three years old, focusing on protecting young skin from sun damage while allowing them to enjoy outdoor activities. The moisturizing formulas include organic almond oil and glycerin to prevent dehydration and ensure extra water resistance.
“The new Nivea Sun Kids Ultra Protect & Play lotion is an ideal choice for active children who love playing in the water,” Stopfer added. “This sun cream provides three times longer water resistance and is also resistant to sand and sweat.”
All Nivea Sun Kids products are at least 62% biodegradable, and the pump spray bottles are made from 95% recycled materials (excluding the cap and pump).
Raw Elements is also making strides in sustainability, having introduced new plant-based bio-plastic flexible tubes across all SPF and product categories. These tubes are made entirely from plant sources, avoid petroleum, and come with a positive carbon footprint.
“One of the most compelling advantages of our plant-based tubes is that they function just like traditional petroleum plastics, allowing them to fit seamlessly into existing recycling systems,” Guadagno explained. “While challenges such as supply chain management and cost increases exist, the benefits of these innovations outweigh the difficulties.”
Raw Elements has also transitioned to full post-consumer recycled (PCR) packaging for its entire range of SPF sticks and lip products, along with zero-waste direct print aluminum SPF tins.
“These packaging upgrades significantly enhance our environmental sustainability program, effectively eliminating 99% of virgin plastics from our entire product line,” Guadagno stated confidently.
Next month, Raw Elements is set to unveil its All Season collection at REI, designed to meet the diverse needs of sunscreen consumers throughout the year.
“This collection aims to cater to outdoor enthusiasts in various seasons and conditions,” Guadagno elaborated.
Cōtz Silky Foam may not be new, but Fallene Ltd. has refined its formula to enhance its appeal. “We are keen to highlight the environmental benefits alongside the effectiveness of our mineral sunscreen,” Dwyer explained. “Silky Foam is an excellent alternative to spray sunscreens, as it delivers targeted application directly to the skin, unlike sprays that can disperse into the air.”
Another key feature of Silky Foam is that it is gluten-free, a vital consideration for consumers with gluten sensitivities or celiac disease. Dwyer pointed out that many retailers now categorize products as ‘gluten-free’ in their searchable databases, and it’s essential to inform consumers about this aspect.
When creating mineral sunscreens, achieving the right balance of key SPF actives can be challenging, as they tend to be heavy and thick, often leaving a visible white cast on the skin. Maran shared insights into this challenge, noting that she formulates sunscreens with finely milled active ingredients. “In an exciting upcoming launch, we’ve employed microsperse dispersion technology, allowing these actives to spread evenly across the skin and blend seamlessly with all skin tones—stay tuned for more details on our social media!” she said.
A new player in the sun care segment, Undefined, is making a significant impact in the mineral category. Known for its commitment to “clean” beauty, the brand’s Founder and CEO Dorian Morris is now venturing into sun care.
“Investing in SPF is crucial for skin health and protecting the skin barrier,” she stated. “However, many people neglect SPF in their daily routine, either due to difficulty finding a suitable formula for their skin tone or a lack of awareness regarding its importance.”
Undefined aims to normalize the use of SPF year-round, not just in the summer or during vacations, addressing common barriers that prevent consumers from incorporating it into their skincare routines. Their R&R Sun Serum is a tinted, broad-spectrum mineral SPF 50 that includes nourishing ingredients like niacinamide, tremella mushroom, jojoba, rosemary, and raspberry seed oil.
“Our formula is lightweight, fragrance-free, and water-resistant, with a universally flattering shade that avoids leaving a white cast, making it especially suitable for deeper skin tones,” Morris explained. “In addition to sun protection, it also shields against environmental aggressors like pollution and blue light. We believe that SPF should be a staple in everyone’s routine, and R&R Sun Serum makes that achievable.”
However, navigating the regulatory landscape remains a challenge for the sun care industry. “Regulatory uncertainties persist regarding which ultraviolet filters can or cannot be used in sun care products in the US,” noted Happi Columnist Nadim Shaath, PhD, President of Alpha R&D. “The FDA’s ‘Deemed Final Order’ has yet to be finalized.”
DSM is currently awaiting FDA approval for its sunscreen active, Bemotrizinol (BEMT). Carl D’Ruiz from DSM shared that the company is preparing for multiple clinical studies, including pivotal MUsT and SPF safety evaluations. “Once completed, we will submit our findings to the FDA for review, aiming for a GRASE submission document by Q2 2023,” he stated. If all goes according to plan, a decision from the FDA could be expected around Q1 2024.
D’Ruiz, who chairs the Personal Care Product Council (PCPC) sunscreen committee, emphasized that the PCPC is collaborating with the FDA to address the safety of eight sunscreen actives. This month, Alex Kowcz of PCPC will present consortium updates at both the Photodermatology Society annual meeting in Orlando and the American Academy of Dermatology annual meeting in Boston, with D’Ruiz also providing insights on BEMT clinical findings.
At the state level, Shaath mentioned ongoing efforts in Hawaii to ban more ultraviolet filters in sun care products, with several bills currently active in both the House and Senate.
“The consumer confusion surrounding these regulations is palpable. Overall, the sun care industry is in a transitional phase,” he added.
As anticipated, Guadagno from Raw Elements and other physical sunscreen manufacturers support the movement to restrict certain ingredients in Hawaii. As reported by Lambros Kromidas in the February issue, Maui County has enacted an ordinance to ban the sale and distribution of non-mineral sunscreens on the island. At the state level, proposed legislation aims to extend Hawaii’s ban on oxybenzone and octinoxate to include all ingredients deemed non-GRASE by the FDA in its final ruling.
According to Kromidas, the sunscreen industry must keep a close eye on the Maui ordinance, which is likely to gain traction and may eventually become law statewide.
“I recently visited the Hawaii State Legislature site (www.capitol.hawaii.gov/) to explore Senate bills of interest related to sunscreen. Two bills, SB 2949 and SB 3001, were proposed in January and are associated with Senator Mike Gabbard. They aim to prohibit the sale and distribution of sunscreen products containing ingredients not generally recognized as safe and effective by the FDA,” he elaborated.
“Only zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are currently considered GRASE by the FDA, meaning that any sunscreen containing other active ingredients would be affected if these bills pass. What happens in Hawaii often sets a precedent for other regions,” Kromidas warned.
In a shocking revelation nearly a year ago, an independent lab reported finding benzene levels exceeding the FDA’s restricted concentration limit in 78 sunscreen formulations. This report implicated several well-known brands, prompting product recalls, yet experts have struggled to determine the source of the contamination. Some believe that the contamination may stem from the delivery systems rather than the formulas themselves.
In addressing the benzene issue, Stopfer assured that Beiersdorf has taken appropriate measures following the Coppertone recall. “Ensuring consumer safety and maintaining the highest quality standards for our products is our top priority,” he stated.
Guadagno reiterated the industry’s commitment to addressing contamination concerns seriously. “We have engaged toxicologists to ensure compliance with best practices and maintain transparency throughout our processes. We do not use benzene or any benzene derivatives in our formulations, and we rigorously test each batch before release, making our results available to consumers who inquire,” he explained, emphasizing the importance of consumer trust.
Today’s consumers are increasingly interested in understanding the ingredients in their products and the environmental impact of their purchases. Guadagno noted that Raw Elements appeals to outdoor enthusiasts who prioritize health, wellness, and environmentally responsible choices.
“Our brand ethos emphasizes ingredient sourcing and social responsibility. Consumers now expect more from us than ever before,” he asserted, reflecting the growing demand for transparency in the sun care industry.
With a loyal customer base, Raw Elements is enjoying significant retail growth, expanding its account base by 25-30% year-over-year. The company has notably increased its presence within Target stores this year, signaling a willingness among consumers to invest in premium sun care products.
Raw Elements is also expanding its offerings within REI stores nationwide, launching its all-season collection as part of an “Outdoor Apothecary” strategy, catering to the needs of outdoor enthusiasts comprehensively.
In addition, Raw Elements continues to grow its public sunscreen dispenser initiative in collaboration with municipal and state governments, as well as retail partners in the hospitality sector.
“We are committed to this initiative, despite the costs involved, as we believe in educating consumers and promoting positive change within the sun care industry,” Guadagno concluded.
Undefined has also broadened its distribution to Target locations across the country. Morris emphasized the importance of representation in retail, asserting that visibility is a crucial aspect of inclusivity. “Representation matters because seeing is believing,” she stated, adding that inclusivity encompasses more than just racial diversity; it includes information and economic accessibility as well.
Morris highlighted that Undefined’s new R&R Collection combines clinically validated actives with ancient botanical wisdom, ensuring its products are both understandable and affordable.
“Our goal is to meet consumers where they are in their wellness journey, demystifying plant-based solutions, and empowering them to thrive,” she said. “Wellness should not be exclusive; it’s time to democratize it.”
Below is a list of innovative sun care ingredients developed by industry suppliers over the past year. For more information about these products, please contact the respective suppliers directly using the information provided.
Botanicals Plus
Boca Raton, FL USA
Tel: 973-439-1417
info@botanicalsplus.com
www.botanicalsplus.com
Superfruit FermBiotic G
INCI: Water (and) Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (and) Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract (and) Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract (and) Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Fruit Extract
Applications: All sunscreen applications
Use levels: 1-3%
Comments: Superfruit FermBiotic G. is a fermented, phytonutrient- and antioxidant-rich complex that offers optimal environmental protection with pre- and postbiotic properties for skin microbiome wellness. With a HORAC EC50 test value of 7.8 ug/ml, Superfruit FermBiotic G. can protect skin against environmental stressors by reducing and counteracting the production of free radicals that cause oxidative stress; maximize protection against UV damage when used alongside sunscreen.
Evonik
Essen, Germany
Tel: 973-929-8000
EvonikPC@evonik.com
www.evonik.com/personalcare
Sphinox Defenda
INCI: Hydroxybutyroyl Phytosphingosine
Applications: After-sun treatments
Use levels: 0.02-0.2%
Comments: Inspired by the diversity of ceramide structures, Sphinox Defenda is a unique derivative of the naturally occurring phytosphingosine, offering various skin defense and protection benefits, including UV-induced DNA damage.
Gattefossé
France
Tel: 20-265-4800
marketingpc@gattefosse.com
www.gattefosse.com
Emulium Illustro
INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate
Applications: Sun protection
Use levels: 3–5%
Comments: Emulium Illustro is a natural and PEG-free W/O emulsifier highly compatible with organic and inorganic UV filters, able to create stable and ultra-fluid textures. Characterized by its flexibility and performance, Emulium Illustro is easy to use and does not need any co-emulsifier. It is the ingredient of choice for water-resistant sunscreens.
Jeen
Fairfield, NJ USA
Tel: 973-439-1417
info@jeen.com
www.jeen.com
Jeesperse Z70CC
INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C13-14 Alkane (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Trieth
Sienna Blake is a licensed aesthetic consultant and beauty writer specializing in cosmetic surgery advancements and non-invasive treatments. With a background in dermatology and over eight years of industry experience, Sienna is passionate about helping people achieve confidence through informed beauty decisions. She holds a Bachelor's degree in Health Sciences and regularly collaborates with top plastic surgeons to stay at the forefront of aesthetic innovations. Outside of her work, Sienna enjoys traveling, skincare research, and practicing Pilates.
