Discover the Sixth Episode of the Quartz Obsession Podcast Season 3 Focused on the Alluring World of Perfume<i>.</i>

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Kira Bindrim: Every time I reunite with my family during the holidays or catch up with friends I haven’t seen in ages, I consistently hear the same remark: “Kira, your scent is unmistakably the same as always!”

While my physical appearance has undoubtedly transformed over the years—changes in my wardrobe, hairstyle, and even my eyewear—I have remained loyal to my signature white musk body spray for over two decades. There’s something comforting about knowing that amidst life’s constant changes, my fragrance stays constant, anchoring my identity.

However, this commitment to a single scent may also mean I’m missing out on the captivating realm of perfumes. For centuries, humans have been exploring and enhancing their personal aromas through intricate combinations of ingredients. During the pandemic, many considered perfume to be the new lipstick, a modest yet delightful way to indulge oneself during challenging times.

Yet, the sheer enjoyment of a delightful fragrance belies the intricate artistry involved in crafting it. Fragrance ingredients originate from every corner of the globe—from lush flowers and dense forests to the most unexpected sources like deer glands and whale intestines. Perfumers function as both chemists and artists, concocting elaborate formulas while navigating the complex logistics required to bring these creations to life. This evolving landscape of scent production reflects our changing world and our quest to smell wonderful within it.

Welcome to the Quartz Obsession, where we delve deep into the intriguing stories behind everyday concepts and what they reveal about the global economy. I’m your host, Kira Bindrim, and today, we will explore the enchanting world of perfume—essentially, human history encapsulated in a bottle.

Joining me is Aurora Almendral, a senior reporter with Quartz based in Bangkok. Since we’re in different locations, Aurora, could you share the fragrance you’re wearing today?

Aurora Almendral: At the moment, I’m wearing a couple of fragrances. One of them is Iris Poudre, created by the talented perfumer Frédéric Malle; it has a lovely floral and powdery aroma that I absolutely adore. On my other arm, I embarked on a little adventure to secure some genuine oud, which is a foundational scent in perfumery. I’ve applied a bit of that as a reminder of the experience of encountering this rare, entirely natural scent. As part of my research, I’m currently wearing two contrasting perfumes.

Kira Bindrim: That’s exciting! Do you often layer fragrances like this?

Aurora Almendral: Not really; I typically stick to one fragrance. However, I felt it was important to recall the oud scent, and I hope it’s not too overwhelming for anyone passing by.

Kira Bindrim: I think that’s a fantastic approach. What sparked your interest in the subject of perfume?

Aurora Almendral: I was taken aback by the rather unsavory origins of some truly exquisite scents. Each ingredient often represents its own micro-industry, accompanied by intricate and surprising supply chains that hint at the wonders of the world. This whimsical and enigmatic nature of scent sourcing fascinates me, as many ingredients are intertwined with historical events, geographical quirks, and the complexities of the biological world.

Kira Bindrim: Many individuals, myself included, might presume that most perfume ingredients naturally emit pleasant aromas. Could you elaborate on a few specific ingredients, detailing their origin stories and the supply chains involved?

Uncovering the Ingredients That Define Perfume

Aurora Almendral: When discussing supply chains, consider the process for a purse: you start with a cow, skin it, tan the hide, and the process is relatively straightforward with controllable variables. In contrast, take ambergris—historically, it was found washed up on beaches with little understanding of its origins.

Eventually, it was discovered that ambergris is connected to whales. There was a significant period of whale hunting during the Moby Dick era, leading to the realization that ambergris originates from within whales. To this day, it’s often described as whale vomit. When whales consume squid, some parts, particularly the beaks, are indigestible, causing a buildup in their intestines. In response, whales produce a special oil to manage this growing mass of undigested squid beaks.

The whale may either pass this mass, which can weigh between 60 to 200 pounds, or die due to its inability to expel it. Following the whale’s death, various sea creatures may feast on the carcass, leading to the eventual release of the ambergris. Due to its lower density than seawater, ambergris floats to the ocean’s surface, drifting for years or even decades.

By chance, it may wash up on a beach, where an observant individual might recognize its distinct aroma and begin selling it in the market. Remarkably, some recent ambergris sales have surpassed $1 million, with one notable sale in 2014 reaching $3 million.

Kira Bindrim: What an intriguing tale!

Aurora Almendral: Isn’t it fascinating?

Kira Bindrim: I find it incredible that there are individuals actively searching for century-old clumps of undigested squid beaks!

Aurora Almendral: Indeed, they are known as ambergris hunters. I recently spoke with a perfumer named Elizabeth Gaines, who creates a fragrance utilizing real ambergris. Her company, Strange Love, is based in New York. I inquired about her challenges during the pandemic regarding ingredient sourcing, and she confirmed that they had been out of stock on their ambergris perfume for several months due to the pandemic lockdowns. Her ambergris hunter, who divides his time between Somalia and England, faced difficulties since people were not combing the beaches for ambergris during those times. For several months, she was unable to procure even the small quantity needed to produce her perfume, leading to significant shortages.

Kira Bindrim: This is a lesser-known aspect of the pandemic’s supply chain issues.

Aurora Almendral: Indeed, it represents a genuine crisis.

Kira Bindrim: It’s surprising to think that beach lockdowns could have such a significant impact. What’s your next captivating ingredient that rivals the allure of ambergris?

Aurora Almendral: The next ingredient is oud, which boasts a rich, woody aroma and is currently trending in many luxury perfumes. Oud is a complex scent, characterized by warmth and a hint of pungency, making it especially intriguing. Interestingly, oud only grows in Southeast Asia, where I currently reside, even though it holds a special place in Middle Eastern culture.

Oud is derived from the aquilaria tree, but the resin is only produced when the tree sustains an injury, becoming infected by mold. In an effort to protect itself from this attack, the tree produces agarwood, which is harvested to create oud. I learned that some of the forests with the richest oud resources are in Laos and Cambodia, areas that suffered from extensive bombing during the Vietnam War. The destruction led to many trees being wounded, prompting them to produce agarwood as a survival response, an unfortunate yet fascinating consequence of conflict.

Being in Southeast Asia, I took the opportunity to explore the genuine scent of oud. I visited a few shops, and the first scent I encountered was Cambodian oud, which instantly reminded me of my childhood in forested areas where my family had a home. However, as I sampled more, I discovered a stark difference in quality. The cheaper option began to emit an unpleasant odor, reminiscent of feces, while the pricier selections gradually developed a sweet, mellow aroma.

Kira Bindrim: I didn’t expect this episode to feature such a high frequency of references to feces!

Aurora Almendral: It is quite unexpected!

Kira Bindrim: What I’m gathering is that the creation of these ingredients often requires a unique interplay of circumstances, almost like a rare confluence of events. Is there a way to synthesize these ingredients to bypass some of these extraordinary conditions?

The Dynamic Landscape of Natural vs. Synthetic Fragrances

Aurora Almendral: Yes, synthetic fragrances began to emerge in 1882, marking a significant turning point in the fragrance industry. The synthetic revolution kicked off with a perfume by Guerlain around 1888 or 1889, paving the way for the increasing incorporation of synthetics in modern perfumery. Currently, many perfumes contain synthetic musks, which are common ingredients found not only in fragrances but also in products like Tide detergent. Perfume formulations are closely guarded secrets, although analyzing their contents is relatively straightforward, with around 80% of modern perfumes being synthetic and only 20% derived from natural sources.

Kira Bindrim: Are there any drawbacks to utilizing synthetic ingredients, or does it depend on the perspective of purists?

Aurora Almendral: I see significant advantages in synthetics. They enable the creation of fragrances that evoke sensations like coldness or the essence of a gray cloud hovering over a vibrant city. Synthetics allow for the formulation of scents that cannot be extracted from natural sources. We can extract oils from flowers like roses or jasmine, but with synthetics, we can mimic concepts like luminescence, which has no natural oil counterpart. Furthermore, synthetic formulations can replicate scents that would otherwise require the destruction of entire forests or the endangerment of species, allowing us to create beautiful aromas without depleting the natural world.

Kira Bindrim: After this short break, let’s explore the future of perfumery.

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Kira Bindrim: To illustrate the perfume-making process, let’s delve into one of the most iconic fragrances: Chanel No. 5. What is the captivating origin story of this timeless perfume?

The Timeless Creation of Chanel No. 5

Aurora Almendral: Chanel No. 5 was created in 1921, making it just over a century old. It was one of the first fragrances to heavily utilize a synthetic compound known as aldehyde. At the time, this approach was revolutionary. Coco Chanel envisioned a scent that was abstract and modern rather than a straightforward floral bouquet. Collaborating with a perfumer, she crafted a blend of woody notes and aldehydes, which was marketed as the quintessential fragrance for the modern woman, resulting in a tremendous success. The French affectionately refer to it as ‘the monster’ due to its unparalleled popularity, with estimates suggesting that a bottle is sold every 30 seconds somewhere in the world.

Over the past century, perceptions of fragrance have undoubtedly evolved. I recall receiving a bottle of Chanel No. 5, excited to experience its iconic scent, only to find that it reminded me of something an older woman would wear. It’s fascinating how societal views on scent change over time, yet Chanel remains one of the most celebrated perfumes globally.

Kira Bindrim: Does the legacy of being a timeless fragrance present challenges? Supply chains may change, and public expectations regarding scent can shift. How has Chanel adapted over the years?

Aurora Almendral: The formula remains a closely guarded secret, and Chanel is committed to maintaining the integrity of the scent. Changes to the formula can disrupt the alchemical balance that connects scent with memory. Throughout the years, various chemicals and molecules have faced bans due to allergens or carcinogenic properties, forcing many perfumes to adjust their formulations. In some cases, this has altered the essence of the fragrance significantly. However, Chanel No. 5 has managed to retain enough continuity over the past century to remain recognizable, bolstered by Chanel’s control over their dedicated rose fields in southern France, which are exclusively for Chanel No. 5.

Kira Bindrim: Unlike snack products that can evolve with new formulas, the essence of a beloved perfume must remain unchanged to satisfy consumer expectations.

Aurora Almendral: Exactly, it’s not akin to a product like Oreos, which can have countless variations. While Chanel has introduced many other fragrances, Chanel No. 5 must retain its original essence. Consumers are incredibly discerning and can immediately recognize any deviation. For example, my mother’s favorite perfume underwent a formula change, which we both disliked, ultimately leading her to stop wearing it, leaving me disappointed.

Kira Bindrim: I can relate to that sentiment. I’ve been devoted to the same scent for years, as it embodies a continuous narrative of my identity, one that resonates with those around me. How do you perceive the relationship between scent, emotion, and memory in your perfume choices?

Aurora Almendral: There are typically two types of perfume enthusiasts. One group, like you, has a signature scent that they consistently wear. As someone who experiences others’ fragrances, I cherish the memories tied to those scents. During the pandemic, I devoted time to finding a vintage bottle of my mother’s perfume, ultimately acquiring a miniature bottle from Italy on eBay, as it held great sentimental value for me. Those who have a signature scent create lasting associations, while I prefer a more eclectic assortment of fragrances. Each scent evokes specific memories or periods in my life, leading me to retire certain perfumes to preserve those memories.

Kira Bindrim: It sounds like your perfumes are like a diary of your experiences.

Aurora Almendral: Exactly!

Kira Bindrim: As we explore the future of perfumery, I’m curious about the challenges the industry faces. With a growing trend toward online shopping, perfume may not be the most conducive product for virtual sales. What insights do we have regarding how the industry is adapting to this shift?

Navigating the Evolution of the Perfume Industry

Aurora Almendral: I recently spoke to Elizabeth Gaines from Strange Love in New York, who shared that their online sales quadrupled from 2020 to 2021, and again from 2021 to 2022. However, this surge did not compensate for the loss of in-store sales at places like Harrods, where customers traditionally experience perfumes firsthand. Discussing scents in a podcast poses its own challenges, as it’s difficult to convey how something smells without the ability to sample it in person. While purchasing small samples is an option, it lacks the immersive experience of visiting a luxury department store, where customers can discover unexpected fragrances they might love.

The sales data for the perfume industry reflects these shifts, with some estimates indicating a 15% drop in sales between 2019 and 2020. However, there has been a V-shaped recovery, and the market is gradually returning to pre-pandemic levels, with global sales projected at approximately $40 billion, down slightly from $41 billion in 2019.

Kira Bindrim: Looking ahead 50 years, if we continue to trend toward online shopping, do you believe that the importance of perfume will diminish? With concepts like the metaverse emerging, the relevance of scent in everyday life could change. Do you foresee any potential threats to the industry?

Aurora Almendral: Indeed, recreating scents in an online environment poses significant challenges, but there are companies attempting to tackle this issue. Efforts to introduce scent into virtual experiences have been ongoing since the 1950s, with initiatives like smell-o-vision. Currently, some companies are exploring ways to evoke scents in metaverse settings. For instance, one company has developed a device for VR headsets that releases scents when users engage with virtual objects, such as smelling a flower or pulling it out of the ground, triggering the release of aromas.

While there are obstacles to overcome, the potential for incorporating scents into immersive digital environments is promising. It could create a more engaging and layered experience for users, and I’m eager to see how this develops.

Kira Bindrim: It’s fascinating to consider that scent is already its own immersive experience. What you mentioned emphasizes that fragrance is an integral part of how we perceive the world, offering a unique lens through which we can connect with our surroundings. This aligns with the optimistic view of the metaverse as a way to enhance access to diverse experiences, allowing us to engage with the world in new and exciting ways.

Aurora Almendral: I appreciate that perspective. It indeed adds an extra dimension to our experiences as we interact with the world.

Kira Bindrim: And thankfully, in the metaverse, we can bypass the unpleasant scents of urban life!

Aurora Almendral: Absolutely—there are certain areas of New York that don’t need to be replicated in a virtual setting!

Kira Bindrim: Before we wrap up, what’s a fun fact about perfume that you find particularly memorable? There are so many intriguing details in this field—what stands out to you?

Aurora Almendral: Throughout my research, I encountered numerous fascinating stories, but one that stuck with me was about a fisherman from 1891 who went to great lengths to find ambergris. By that time, it was already known to come from whales, but this fisherman discovered a whale carcass that had been stripped of its blubber. He dragged it onto a beach in Tasmania, cut it open, and crawled inside to search for ambergris within the intestines.

Remarkably, he found approximately 200 pounds of ambergris, but it’s almost comical to envision him tracking whale carcasses across the beach in search of this precious substance. Just picturing the entire process is both absurd and fascinating!

Kira Bindrim: Just a casual afternoon spent inside a whale, right?

Aurora Almendral: Yes, the experience must have been utterly bizarre, especially as he was diving into a decomposing whale to find something so valuable, akin to winning the lottery!

Kira Bindrim: If someone offered me $3 million to spend an hour inside a whale, I might consider it!

Aurora Almendral: I might agree to that too!

Kira Bindrim: Perhaps we’ve discovered a new career path as ambergris hunters! Thank you so much, Aurora, for sharing your insights. I’ve gained a wealth of knowledge and will never look at a whale the same way again. This has been an enlightening discussion.

Aurora Almendral: Thank you for exploring the world of perfume with me.

Kira Bindrim: That concludes our weekly Obsession. This episode was produced by Katie Jane Fernelius, with sound engineering by George Drake and executive production by Alex Ossola. The theme music is composed by Taka Yasuzawa and Alex Suguira. A special thank you to Aurora Almendral in Bangkok.

If you enjoyed this episode, please consider leaving a review on Apple Podcasts or your preferred listening platform. Share our podcast with friends, especially those who have a signature scent! Don’t forget to visit qz.com/obsession to subscribe to Quartz’s Weekly Obsession email and explore a treasure trove of captivating stories.