After two years of pandemic-induced limitations on personal style, beauty consumers are embracing a bold “rebellious sensibility” in their hair care choices this season, as noted by industry expert Philip Pelusi. The frequent contributor to Happi.com highlights that for Winter 2022/2023, hairstyles reflect a vibrant “winter weather nonconformity.”

From innovative interpretations of the 70s shag haircut to daring shades of unconventional bronze brunette, beauty formulators and marketers are creatively addressing winter hair challenges. These include persistent issues like hat hair, dry scalp, and static electricity, by combining revolutionary ingredients designed to provide effective seasonal solutions. This marks a significant shift towards more expressive hair care products that cater to a diverse range of consumer desires.

Furthermore, modern consumers increasingly seek products that support salon-level styling at home. Recent findings from Kline Pro indicate a notable rise in demand for blowout services, with salon blowouts up by 36% in the US and 46% in Canada compared to the previous year. This growing trend reflects a shift in consumer behavior, as more individuals desire to achieve salon-quality volume and style in their everyday routines.

“As clients express a desire to replicate the volume and styling achieved by their professional stylists at home, the demand for volumizing products has surged, increasing by nearly 12% across both countries,” stated Paula Gottdiner, project manager for consumer products at Kline. “Additionally, the popularity of texturizing products has also seen a rise, with a nearly 3% increase compared to last year.”

In 2021, the sales of hair serums experienced a remarkable increase of nearly 23%, while styling aid serums also saw a rise of 13%. This upward trend has continued into 2022, as consumers expand their hair care routines with products inspired by the principles of skin care. The evolving landscape of hair care reflects a growing awareness of the importance of nourishing and treating hair with the same dedication as skin.

Mass market shampoo sales surged by 4.8% to reach $3.6 billion, while conditioner sales saw a slight increase of 1.1% to $2.5 billion, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) covering the total US multi-outlet market for the 52 weeks ending October 2, 2022. Additionally, hair coloring products climbed by 2.8% to $1.6 billion, while hair accessories rose by 1.2%, also totaling $1.6 billion. Notably, hair growth products jumped by 2.3% to $120.8 million, although home permanent and relaxer kits saw a decline of 9% to $40.7 million.

For those interested in a deeper analysis of these categories from IRI, click here.

“In the realm of hair care, we’re witnessing a shift where consumers are seeking products that go beyond the basic necessities,” remarked Nathalie Gerschtein, president of the Consumer Products Division for L’Oréal in North America, during her conversation with Happi. “Interest in scalp care and hair oils is on the rise, and we anticipate this trend to gain momentum as we move into 2023.”

Explore the Latest Trends in Hair Care Focused on Strengthening and Revitalizing

Coco & Eve Bond-Building Treatment

“Achieving strong, healthy, and shiny hair is the ultimate goal for many consumers,” stated Nick Stenson, senior vice president of store and services operations for Ulta Beauty in Chicago.

Stenson, who oversees operations, is well-versed in beauty products. As an award-winning celebrity stylist and a long-time partner with L’Oréal USA, he shares his insights and knowledge about the latest hair care trends with the beauty community. His newest venture, a comprehensive hair care line, is set to launch both online at Ulta Beauty and in physical stores in early 2023.

The new Nick Stenson Beauty collection features an array of products, including Volume Shampoo, Volume Conditioner, Moisture Shampoo, Moisture Conditioner, Root Lifter Spray, Smoothing Crème, Hydrating Oil, Leave-in Conditioner, Volume Crème, Light Hold Hair Spray, Texture Spray, and Dry Shampoo. Each product is crafted to “heal, hydrate, and strengthen all hair types using high-quality ingredients,” as described by Stenson. This meticulous approach reflects a growing consumer demand for effective, multi-functional hair care solutions.

In parallel, indie beauty brand K18 has been making headlines with impressive sales growth, reportedly more than doubling in 2021. While it may seem like an overnight success, the brand invested nearly a decade in research to develop its patented K18Peptide. This unique formula is designed to penetrate the core of hair’s keratin or polypeptide chains, effectively reconnecting broken chains and restoring over 90% of hair’s strength and elasticity. Recently, K18 expanded its distribution, partnering with the professional retailer SalonCentric.

K18’s latest offering, the Peptide Prep Pro, is a no-mix, spray-on demineralizing salon treatment that promises to effectively reduce the presence of seven common metals and minerals in just four minutes. The formula includes ingredients like activated charcoal and salicylic acid, which work gently to remove buildup without compromising the integrity of the hair.

“A key trend we’re observing in hair care today is the rise of detoxifying products that effectively remove buildup while preserving color integrity,” shared Casey Yee, stylist and senior director of global education at K18, with Happi. “Incorporating a color-safe detox shampoo into one’s hair care routine helps establish a clean canvas, ensuring that color and chemical treatments, as well as styling products, perform optimally.”

Meanwhile, DefenAge Skincare is broadening its horizons by entering the hair care market with the introduction of the 150K Hair Follicle Serum. This innovative product is infused with DefenAge’s proprietary Age-Repair Defensins, which are believed to stimulate the skin’s latent master cells and initiate a targeted regenerative response.

This lightweight, water-based serum boasts a blend of 48 revitalizing ingredients, clinically shown to benefit the scalp and hair. Key components include the natural flavonoid Apigenin, azalea flower-isolated yeast extract, and organic pea sprouts extract. Importantly, the formula is hormone-free, making it suitable for a wide audience.

Designed to rejuvenate, the 150K Hair Follicle Serum is suitable for both men and women, aiming to revitalize the scalp and the skin beneath the hair. With the human scalp housing up to 150,000 hair follicles, this serum ensures that each follicle operates at its best. The proprietary technology helps maintain skin health and freshness, creating an optimal environment for hair follicles to thrive.

The serum is engineered to diminish visible signs of hair loss, boost scalp immunity, and provide essential nutritional support to hair follicles, promoting healthy hair growth. It is applied directly to the scalp using a specialized vial that safeguards product integrity and minimizes waste, with the goal of enhancing visible hair quality and preserving natural pigmentation, thus reducing the appearance of gray hairs.

“During initial testing, we observed that the serum offers remarkable benefits when applied to the skin beneath the beard,” stated DefenAge CEO Nikolay Turovets. “We found that the skin under the beard appears visibly smoother and more evenly toned, with a noticeable reduction in inflammation and itchiness.”

Regarded as a transformative solution for colored and chemically treated hair, the new Coco & Eve Bond-Building Pre-Shampoo Treatment elevates bond repair to unprecedented levels, significantly minimizing damage. The formula merges an advanced bond-building polymer with strengthening and lipid-replenishing avocado and coconut oils, working in harmony to holistically repair weak, dry, and damaged hair.

This vegan-friendly formulation incorporates three types of rebuilding bonds essential for hair health: disulfide, ionic, and hydrogen bonds. According to Coco & Eve, disulfide bonds are among the strongest and most permanent bonds in hair, contributing to its strength and shape. These bonds can be broken by heat and chemical treatments. Salt or ionic bonds are temporary and may be disrupted when hair is wet, humid, or exposed to pH imbalances caused by hair products. Finally, hydrogen bonds, although temporary, play a crucial role in hair strength and elasticity and can be affected by water, humidity, and heat.

Paul Mitchell expanded its clean beauty offerings with a scalp care line.

New from Monat this month is Monat IR Clinical, a comprehensive three-part regimen designed to combat hair fall, according to the esteemed Happi Top 50 company. This collection introduces bakuchiol for its anti-inflammatory properties, caffeine for UV protection, and melatonin, known for reducing hair thinning caused by DHT. The product line is suitable for all hair types and textures.

At the heart of the IR Clinical collection is a non-greasy serum that promises to reduce breakage and produce thicker, fuller-looking hair within 60 days. Clinical studies have shown a 92% reduction in hair fall, with eight out of ten consumers reporting improved hair growth. Additionally, the line includes a thickening shampoo and conditioner, further enhancing its efficacy.

Actress Jennifer Aniston’s vegan and cruelty-free hair care brand, LolaVie, has introduced a restorative shampoo and conditioner duo. Since its launch last year, these products have consistently been among the most requested items. In line with the brand’s ethos, the products incorporate bamboo essence, promoting less waste and water conservation, as highlighted by the company.

Formulated with LolaVie Bond, the brand’s proprietary technology, these products harness the power of chia seeds to repair pre-existing damage while also shielding the hair from future harm. Other beneficial ingredients include upcycled jackfruit and orange pulp, coconut alkanes, superfruit conditioning agents, and vegan keratin complexes, alongside the all-new LolaVie Healthy Volume Complex. Like all LolaVie offerings, the conditioner is vegan, cruelty-free, color-safe, suitable for all hair types, and features the brand’s signature fragrance.

Revamping Popular Hair Care Products for Seasonal Appeal

The cover model uses KC Texture.

Some hair care brands are refreshing their popular products for the season or expanding their best-sellers. For instance, R+Co has enhanced its Lost Treasure range with an Apple Cider Vinegar Conditioner, complementing its well-loved Lost Treasure Apple Cider Vinegar Cleansing Rinse (formerly known as Acid Wash).

Inspired by traditional beauty treatments, this weightless conditioning and nourishing rinse effectively softens hair by sealing damaged cuticles, detangling, enhancing shine, and preventing frizz, according to the company’s claims.

Two new innovations from Nexxus have recently launched exclusively on Amazon.com: the Keraphix Damage Repair Treatment Cream and the Humectress 360° Perfector Spray. These latest additions to the Nexxus portfolio are designed to deliver salon-quality results at home, offering consumers a convenient option to maintain their hair’s health and appearance.

The Nexxus Keraphix Damage Repair Treatment Cream is a reparative fiber bonding product that addresses split ends, provides heat protection, minimizes unwanted frizz, and accelerates blow-dry time. Utilizing unique bonding technology, it strengthens hair, resulting in a shiny, soft, and healthier-looking finish.

Meanwhile, the Nexxus Humectress 360° Perfector Spray is a leave-in treatment that offers multiple benefits to enhance hair health and appearance. This versatile product aligns with the ongoing trend of consumers seeking multifunctional hair care solutions.

Redken is also expanding its hair care lineup with the introduction of the All Soft Moisture Restore Leave-In Treatment. Infused with hyaluronic acid, this leave-in treatment hydrates hair while locking in moisture. It also acts as a protective barrier against heat, static, and humidity, catering to the diverse needs of modern consumers.

Bumble and Bumble is set to launch a deep conditioning mask as part of its best-selling Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Ultra Rich Collection. This moisturizing treatment features “skin care-grade” biomimetic hyaluronic acid and kalahari melon seed oil. Additionally, it incorporates Bumble and Bumble’s distinctive six-oil blend, which includes coconut, argan, grapeseed, macadamia nut, sweet almond, and safflower seed oils. This color-safe mask is designed for all hair types and textures, nourishing hair from scalp to ends, as emphasized by the Estée Lauder-owned brand.

Innovative Solutions for Curly and Textured Hair

Targeting consumers with curly, coily, wavy, and tight textures, the salon brand Keratin Complex has introduced its new KCTexture line, starting with the Keratin Complex KCTexture Leave-In Conditioner. This innovative product features a proprietary blend of signature keratin, coconut oil, and watermelon seed oils, along with soy and barley proteins, catering specifically to the diverse needs of textured hair. Check out the model on the cover who has used this product.

Kenra Professional, a Henkel brand, recently launched the AllCurl range. This collection is designed to help all curl types achieve their desired styles every day while promoting awareness and education about styling various curl patterns. The aim is to address the unique styling needs of diverse curl types comprehensively.

“Historically, curl products have often focused on isolating specific patterns and textures, but the reality is that most curly individuals have a mix of patterns that shape their unique style identity. Instead of limiting options, AllCurl encourages users to ask themselves, ‘What style do you want today?’ This approach fosters style customization through the right combination of products and techniques,” explained Matt Lowenthal, vice president of marketing at Kenra, Henkel.

The AllCurl collection features various products, each offering different levels of key styling benefits and ingredients to help users create their ideal curl styles effortlessly.

Christin Brown, an artistic ambassador and stylist at Kenra Professional specializing in curly hair, expressed her enthusiasm for the AllCurl line, noting its potential benefits for both her clients and herself. “As a curl connoisseur, I am thrilled to use these products. Kenra Professional consistently impresses me with their effectiveness, and AllCurl is no exception. This collection offers a much-needed variety to address the unique requirements of textured hair, allowing for personalized curl experiences,” she shared.

In line with the commitment to offering inclusive hair care, Matrix has unveiled its newest permanent color system, Coil Color. This ammonia-free formula, enriched with 60% oil, including coconut oil, is specifically designed to maintain curl definition during coloring processes. With the needs of natural hair clients in mind, Matrix has completed its Curl Preserving Portfolio, providing stylists with a comprehensive color and care solution that complements the Matrix A Curl Can Dream system.

Independent Stylists and the Future of Hair Care

The rise of independent stylists presents a new growth channel for salon hair care brands, according to Kline. Despite a nearly 5% decline in the global number of hair salons since 2019, many former stylists have turned to offering hair-related services independently. In the US alone, the number of independent hair stylists exceeds half a million and continues to grow. Their collective expenditure on professional hair care products surpasses $2 billion, making them an attractive target for professional hair care brands.

Gerschtein from L’Oréal emphasized that the “next big thing” in beauty revolves around technology and innovation. “For instance, virtual and augmented reality are revolutionizing the shopping experience, allowing consumers to try on products from the comfort of their homes,” she noted. “Our investment in Modiface exemplifies this shift, enabling live shopping experiences with virtual makeup and hair color try-ons, alongside touchless samples to create immersive consumer experiences, no matter where they are.”

Market research firm Spate anticipates a rise in demand for scalp cleansers and hair loss foams in the coming year, driven by current consumer trends. Scalp cleanser searches, for example, reveal a growing consumer interest in scalp care, with an average of 8.9K searches per month in the US. Although this figure is relatively low compared to other hair care products, it has increased by 14.1% over the past year, with Aveda and Nioxin emerging as category leaders.

The heightened focus on scalp care has been further fueled by the “skinification” of the hair care industry, as consumers increasingly associate healthy hair with a healthy scalp. As the demand for dry shampoos and hair mousses rises, brands should consider educating consumers on proper scalp cleansing techniques following extended no-wash periods or intense styling days.

At press time, John Paul Mitchell Systems (JPMS) announced an expansion of its Paul Mitchell Clean Beauty line, now including shampoo, conditioner, and Therapy Drops. Together, these products empower stylists to create tailored hair care routines that address various scalp concerns, such as dandruff and oil control.

The formulas incorporate nourishing grapevine sap to enhance scalp and hair appearance, along with antioxidant-rich chamomile extract for soothing properties. Infused with zinc, they aim to rebalance sebum production while strengthening and nourishing hair strands. Suitable for all hair types, particularly those with dry, oily, and sensitive scalps, this line offers versatility and efficacy.

Zotos Professional has unveiled its first microbiome-friendly certified product line, relaunching Biotera. The company has dedicated years to redeveloping Biotera’s portfolio, ensuring that each certified product respects the diversity of the scalp microbiome.

The new Ultra Color Care and Ultra Moisturizing sulfate-free collections feature scalp-friendly formulas made with a blend of pre- and post-biotics, along with signature beauty-boosting botanicals. All Biotera products are vegan and PETA-approved, aligning with the increasing consumer preference for ethical products.

Consumers are also turning to hair loss foams as effective solutions to treat hair loss and promote fuller hair growth. Currently, there are about 10.9K searches each month in the US for hair loss foam, a medium volume in the context of hair product searches. This category has grown by an impressive 49.1% in searches over the past year, with leading brands including Rogaine and Kirkland, according to Spate.

Cost and convenience are critical factors for consumers when shopping for hair loss foams, leading them to search for these products at accessible retailers like Walmart, Costco, CVS, and Target. The increasing search queries for “how to apply” hair loss foam indicate a lack of familiarity with this format, presenting an opportunity for brands to enhance their marketing materials with clear, user-friendly instructions.

Casey Yee of K18 predicts that in 2023, the beauty industry will continue to witness a surge in products that minimize waste, including concentrates, shampoo bars, and sustainable packaging. Additionally, formulas that prioritize scalp microbiome safety are expected to trend higher, reflecting a growing consumer awareness of holistic hair care.

Nick Stenson, a second-generation hair stylist committed to meeting consumer beauty needs, emphasized that 2023 will focus on customization and ongoing exploration of sustainability and natural ingredients in hair care formulation. “As healthy hair becomes the new standard, we will see a continued emphasis on simplifying products by removing unnecessary ingredients and a sustained shift towards environmentally conscious packaging,” he noted. “Versatile products will remain a priority as well.”