In recent times, there has been a remarkable resurgence in the appreciation for fragrance oils and attars as an alternative to traditional perfumes. These exquisite scents create a calming atmosphere, transforming the act of wearing fragrance into a cherished ritual, rather than a hurried application before heading out the door. This article explores the reasons behind this trend and presents a curated selection of essential oils that are essential for any fragrance lover.

To kick things off, it’s important to clarify the distinction between concentrated perfume oils and attars. According to a comprehensive overview on Medium.com, the term ‘attar’, ‘ittar’ or ‘itra’ is believed to originate from the Persian word ‘itir’, which means ‘perfume’ and is also thought to be derived from the Arabic term itr.

Essential oils are typically extracted from a variety of botanical sources including flowers, resins, woods, and spices. The most common extraction methods employed are hydro and steam distillation, utilizing a deg and bhapka setup. Often, attar composers will conduct co-distillations to achieve specific desired effects.

Traditionally, these essential oils are ‘pulled’ into sandalwood or other suitable carrier oils once distillation is complete. The resulting product is then separated from floral waters. The oil component, which floats, is filtered into a separate container and left to settle for a few days. This oil is referred to as an attar.

This ancient art of perfumery can be traced back to the 1500s during the reign of the Mughal emperors in India, although the practice of using oils as carriers for fragrant ingredients reaches back even further in time. In stark contrast to the more extravagant and overpowering fragrances that often dominate the market, these delicate scents evoke a sense of contemplation and tranquility, serving as a means for personal meditation and connection to the self.

While attars and oils are remarkably concentrated and intense, they do not necessarily project loudly as some might assume. As noted by perfumer Nancy Meiland, whose acclaimed GAIA attar exemplifies this notion, “Attars don’t announce your presence from a distance like an eau de parfum might.” Instead, these fragrances are designed to be experienced intimately, creating warm, gentle “nuzzles” that you can savor throughout the day. The subtle diffusion allows these scents to linger pleasantly, offering a whisper of fragrance rather than an overwhelming burst.

As trend forecaster and fragrance writer for wewerperfume.com Amanda Carr notes, while we are just beginning to rediscover these treasures in the West, attars have practical applications in India. She elaborates:

‘Attars are commonly utilized by the Muslim community in India as a means of enhancing well-being. The perfumeries I visited were bustling with families purchasing their seasonal fragrances to uplift their health and emotional well-being. Unlike eau de parfums, attars are free from alcohol, which makes them suitable for all occasions. There are traditional guidelines dictating which botanicals to wear at specific times; for instance, cooling vetiver in the heat of summer, while jasmine and rose are favored, with saffron offering warmth during cooler months. The in-store perfumers often provided advice akin to that of a pharmacist, suggesting which botanical attar could address a particular ailment.’

Nancy reflects that she felt a strong intuitive connection to creating her first attar during the early days of the pandemic. Her GAIA attar, a soothing concentrated blend of Calabrian bergamot, nutmeg, and jasmine sambac, is centered around blue lotus absolute—traditionally regarded as a flower capable of opening the mind and providing powerful protection during transformative times.

So, what has prompted this surge in interest for perfume oils and attars within the Western market? According to Nancy, the answer is simple: “In troubled times, we crave more magic, not less.” She explains, “It’s all about engaging deeply with the plants and flower essences, understanding their unique properties and benefits. The goal is to combine them harmoniously so that each note enhances rather than detracts from the others, allowing the individual scents to shine and create a beautiful olfactory harmony. There’s an alchemy involved in crafting an attar that resonates with nature.”

Nancy Meiland GAIA From £4.95 for 2ml (£65 for 30ml) nancymeiland.com

Are you eager to explore a variety of captivating perfume oils and attars this season? Below is a selection of luxurious examples that we believe will delight your senses and elevate your mood. Ranging from affordable to indulgent, there’s a fragrance for every preference.

If your fragrance collection feels a bit one-dimensional, elevate it with this tantalizingly aromatic oil. This unique blend features spice-infused bergamot and plum, culminating in a creamy leather dry-down that feels like ‘your skin but better’. The warm, lingering essence of amber continues to develop throughout the day. The convenient roller-ball bottle makes it perfect for travel or quick touch-ups on-the-go.

Malin & Goetz Dark Rum Perfume Oil £32 for 9ml malinandgoetz.co.uk

Inspired by the diverse portfolio of naturals from LMR Naturals, Christopher Yu and Laurent Delafon crafted their stunning Ostens collection. Each eau de parfum is beautifully complemented by an optional ‘Préparation Oil’, which can be layered with the fragrance or enjoyed independently. While every scent in the Ostens collection is exceptional, layering them elevates the experience to another level of divine indulgence.

Ostens Rose Oil Isparta £185 for 50ml eau de parfum + perfume oil ostens.com

The Strangelove collection, created by the talented